8 things to know about how to remove wall paper

8 things to know about How to Remove Wall paper from A Pinch of Joy

The first house we owned was a three story Victorian.  The second and current house is a two story Seventies Special.  What do they have in common?  Wallpaper.  Although wallpaper is a trend that comes and goes, it is still a classic solution for rough walls or providing an accent.  What goes up, must eventually come down.   Here’s what I’ve learned about how to remove wall paper:

1) The Victorian had plastered walls.  First narrow wood strips called lathe was nailed to the stud, a rough coat of plaster was then applied.  When it dried, a finish coat of plaster was laid over the top and polished smooth by a skilled craftsman.  Properly applied and maintained, it produced a durable surface.   To remove wallpaper we found hot water and a clean garden sprayer were most effective.   Working in four foot squares, Wheels would saturate a section, going over it until it was wet and almost dripping.  Then he would move to the next  section and begin to saturate it. 

After about five minutes I would begin to test the first section, using a putty knife to see if I could separate the paper from the plaster wall.  Let it set too long and you could damage the plaster so focus and repeated testing was key. When wallpaper paste softened sufficiently, paper would peel easily away without damaging the plaster.     Often the paper would come off in big chunks and all that was necessary was to wash the glue off the plaster and wipe it dry.   We could do a wall in an evening and were confident in our ability.    

Then we moved and our experience grew in depth and breadth. 

2) We prepared for the project the same way.  Remove furniture from the work area.  Shove it to the other side of the room, in other words.  And put down drop cloths. Remove electrical faceplates.  We acquired a little gadget that looks like a mouse only it with spiky gears on the bottom instead of the roller ball.  The spikes of the scorer pierce the wallpaper so  liquid can penetrate and soften the adhesive.  These are all good things.   

3) Successful wallpaper removal depends on something over which you may have no control, especially if you are not the first owner.   Primed wallboard.   If you find yourself trying to remove paper from unprimed wallboard –it can be done (see #4) but you have my sincerest sympathy!  Best is preventive. Never, ever, ever put wallpaper on wallboard that has not been primed and/or painted.   

4) Strippable paper only means that the top layer can be pulled off.  You will still be left with a layer stuck to your wall.  It was a snow day and nothing was moving when we decided to work on the powder room.  The wallpaper also was not moving, so we filled all the pans we could find with boiling water and put them in the closed room.   Bytes dived in with a putty knife when visibility had been reduced to zero by steam and began scraping.  It worked. 

5) Not all adhesives are created equal.  Our next project was the kitchen soffit –  20 feet in length 12 inches wide.  That paper came off inch by painful inch over many long days.   It was probably made by Wall Armor.  We tried every trick we knew or ever heard about then Bytes googled for more.   But lessons learned:

6)  There are many options for a solution that will soften adhesive.  Fabric softener is one.  Mix equal parts of fabric softener and very hot water in a spray bottle.  Vinegar and very hot water in equal measurements mix in a spray bottle is a second option.  For these solutions, spray about a four foot square and let it set for five minutes before scraping it off.  These may or may not work on a particular adhesive, but you won’t know until you try.  Another option is a commercially prepared adhesive softener. There are several different brands. Follow the directions on the label.  These, also, may or may not work.   

7) Listen to the crew.  That below the chair rail paper in the dining room was also made by Wall Armor.  And stuck down with NASA rocket glue.  Bytes and Wheels were not swayed by my “I don’t want to spend money on equipment that will just set in the garage forever between uses” argument.  One hour and two feet of semi-cleaned wall and they were off to the home improvement store.  And they came home with a wallpaper steamer.

  Wallpaper Steamer

8)  The right equipment makes the job so much easier!  This little $50 wonder made the dining room project so much easier.  We turned around and used it again a few months later in the office makeover.  It uses all the most successful factors from all the other methods we’ve used –strip the top layer of paper off, score the remaining layer, apply steam in a controlled area to quickly soften the adhesive without damaging the wall underneath.  If you do run into a tough patch, the adhesive softeners  give  the boost needed to get the paper off.  The wallpaper steamer has saved so many hours, so much frustration and effort! 

Wallpaper Steamer in action Add water to the steam unit.  Steam moves up the hose to the applicator (on the left).  Place the applicator over the wallpaper to be removed and hold it in place until the adhesive loosens.  Scrape off the paper and adhesive (on the right).  Repeat until done.  Wash wall with sponge and warm water.  Ready for a new look! 

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How to Repair a Hole in Drywall

The office is completed and everything (well, the computer, at least!) is where it now belongs!  This was one of the quickest makeovers we’ve done, especially considering that it was not even on the radar until I spotted a new desk.   It just grew from there with one thing leading to another!  We are really happy with the results and it was definitely worth the upheaval!  I’ll share a few steps we took along the way and by then everything will truly be in place and you can see the happy ending!

Repairing a hole in drywal

First there were some repairs.  This ugly hole was from an old telephone connection about eye level on the wall – never used since we owned the house.  It had been covered by a blank plate but was still an eyesore and was always in the way when trying to place anything on the wall.

Readymade drywall patch

First step was to purchase a standard dry wall patch, although you could make your own if you have some drywall left from a previous project.  Bytes noted that this was the size of a man’s fist.  I didn’t ask how — or why — he was able to make that correlation!  The attached paper is very similar to the material used for dry wall tape.  It is what holds the patch in place and allows the joint compound to form a smooth surface.

Purchased dry wall patch

Besides the dry wall patch, you will need joint compound.  You can purchase this premixed in small quantities, or a larger container if you know you will be doing other projects.  To store joint compound, clean the sides (on the inside) of the container and place a piece of clear plastic wrap directly on the mixture before snapping the lid on tightly.  You will also need a good broadknife.  Our container of joint compound came with a plastic applicator shaped like a broadknife that works if you are doing this only once.  But a good metal broadknife makes the job so much easier and faster with better results.  It is definitely a good investment for a homeowner!

Clean opening to be repaired with utiity knife

Remove   debris from opening with sharp utility knife.  A good utility knife with adjustable blade is another good tool for every homeowner to have in their kit!    For this project, we first removed the box and the exposed wiring that was no longer functioning.  (If you are removing an old electrical outlet, double check to be certain the wires are not carrying electricity before touching them!)

Cut opening to fit draywall patch

A template is provided with the drywall patch.  Center it over the hole and trace the outside edges.  Use your sharp utility knife to cut the opening just inside the traced lines.  Boxes for phone or electrical connections are usually installed next to a wall stud. Placing part of your patch over the stud, when possible, gives the patch more stability.

Use the applicator or your broadknife to add joint compound around the inside edges of the opening.   Note the brown plastic molly insert is now gone.  Use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull them out of the wall before filling hole with joint compound.

Add layer of joint compound and insert drywall patch

Apply a thin layer of joint compound – barely an eighth of an inch – around the perimeter of the opening.  Carefully insert the dry wall patch into the prepared opening.  Press the covering paper gently into the layer of joint compound so that it adheres to the wall.

Apply joint compound to patch

Apply a very thin layer over the entire patch to fill in any indentations.  Broad, firm strokes will give you the most control.  Let dry — the dark patches will disappear and color will be uniform.  Apply a second thin layer over the entire patch.   Feather out the edges beyond the patch.  Feathering out the joint compound  to nothingness is what makes the patch invisible.

Properly installed dry wall patch

If necessary, lightly sand dried surface to remove any irregularities.   Ours did need a third very thin coat of joint compound to make it smooth, but needed very little sanding.   The patch is at Bytes fingertip and below.

finished dry wall patch

All done!  And that homeowner’s lament:  Why didn’t we do this sooner?!!!!

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My Office and chaos

Forty eight hours ago the only things we owned in the picture above were the scissors and the roll of tape.  Oh!  And the flooring and the black toile curtains.   Nothing else was even on the radar!   One thing just led to another and this is the chaos in my office today.  It’s a good chaos and I’ll share the story soon . . . but in the meantime there is a caulk gun calling my name!

Thoughts and prayers are with those who are dealing with storm chaos today!

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New cushions in five easy steps

5 easy steps to make cushions for outdoor chairs

 

Boring beige. Tired and sad looking.  The cushions came with the chairs when they were brand new six years ago and had served well – but time for buh-bye! We eat almost every meal outdoors on the deck when the weather is nice.  We needed something a livelier than beige and a bit of pattern to contrast with the dark furniture.  A trip to the fabric store turned up the perfect pattern with soothing colors in an outdoor fabric.  Here’s how to make new cushions for your outdoor chairs in five easy steps!

1. Measure your chairs.  Choose a pillow form that most closely matches the size of your chair. Mine was 20 inches by 20 inches and each chair required 2 forms – one for the seat and one for the back.   I determined how much fabric to buy by measuring the circumference to get 40 inches plus the inch of ease for 41 inches.  Then adding ¾ inch for a hem on each end plus two and 1/2 inch overlap (you’ll see what this means further down) for a total of 45 inches.  The width I needed was the pillow size plus an inch of ease AND two seam allowances – about 22 and a half inches.  Fabric comes in different widths, but the outdoor fabric I chose was 60 inches wide. Each cut measured 45 inches by 22 ½ inches.   No matter how I placed my cuts I needed 45 inches wide and 45 inches deep for two cushions.  Every two cushions meant I needed one and a fourth yards and would have a 15inch x 45 inch piece left.

2. Cut your fabric according to the measurements and plan you made in determining how much fabric to buy.

3. Hem the narrow ends of each piece, using  ¾ hem allowance.

4. Lay the fabric on a table right side up.  Fold one end toward the center approximately  one third of the finished size of the pillow – in this case about 8 inches.  Fold the other end toward the center, overlapping the first end by about 2 and one half inches. Right sides are folded in and what you see is the wrong side of the fabric.  Measure from fold to fold.  The measurement should be the same as the pillow form plus the amount you allowed for ease. Pin the open edges together on one side and then the other.

5.  Stitch the open edges together using the seam allowance you determined in step one.  I double stitched mine, but you don’t have to do that.  Trim the corners by nipping off a triangle from finished seam to outside.  This reduces fabric bulk in the corner.  Turn right side out, pushing corners out with point of scissors as needed.  Insert pillow form into the larger part and then fold the smaller part over so it lays smoothly.  Smile happily!!

The smaller back roll cushions were made from the 15 inch leftovers.  I just folded a 21 inch piece of fabric in half, right side in and stitched them together leaving a narrow end open.  Added handfuls of stuffing material (also available at the fabric store in the same area you find pillow forms).  When I had enough stuffing to suit, I folded in the raw edges of the opening and machine stitched them closed. The finished size is 7 inches by 20 inches.  Easy peasey!!

A custom, one of a kind look for less!

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Watering bottle – a Pinterest trial

You’ve seen it pinned all over Pinterest, especially if you are a gardener.  I had it on my own “Brilliant” board for a while — brilliant as in “why didn’t I think of this!”  I love ideas that are slightly out of the box — and cheap!  This sounded perfect.   “It” is  a plastic milk jug with holes pierced in the cap to make a watering bottle.   The pictures showed a couple of different versions with water gently pouring through the pierced cap.  I went looking for the original source and found at least three possibilities — and then decided it didn’t matter who was first because they probably don’t want the “credit” for my experiment.

The blog I first saw associated with this pin didn’t have any directions.  But really how hard could it be?  I grabbed my trusty hammer and a smallish nail and got to work.

Surprisingly the milk jug cap was on the soft side.  If I just put the point of the nail through, the plastic sort of healed itself and came back together.  I shoved the nail into the holes then and wiggled it to get the openings shown above.

Full of hope, I filled the milk jug and stood by the newly planted pots full of impatiens.   I anticipated a gentle stream of water, soaking the pots evenly without damaging the plants or gouging a hole in the potting soil.  There was a spotty sprinkle.  I hoisted the back end a little higher.  The sprinkle stopped.  I assessed the situation and decided I must have been holding it wrong (Isn’t that a typical woman response — all MY fault!) So I tried again, even more gently tipping the bottle so the water flowed to the holey cap. It dribbled until the level of the water completely covered the cap.  Nothing. Impatiens was quickly translating into impatient me!

I tried a third time with the same results.  Okay, maybe the holes are wrong.  Took the cap off and looked to see if there was a way the holes would plug themselves.  Nope!  Even all the way around, no “flaps” to plug the holes.  All right!  It was hot and I had been gardening all day — tired and dirty and quickly moving to the crabby side of life!

Apparently once the holes were covered with water, a vacuum was created in the bottle and there was no air pressure to force the water out.  A bit of experimentation showed that trying to leave the top couple of holes open to allow air into the bottle was not going to get those pots watered this week! No place to pierce the bottle itself to balance the air pressure without creating a dribble hole.  So I squeezed.  That got results — for about 15 seconds.  A good squirt of water before the vacuum took over.  Set the bottle upright, air rushed back in and repeat the process.   Not the most efficient process.  Plus I ended up with this:

I’d say — don’t bother to try this at home!  Unless you use a more rigid bottle than a milk jug and can figure out how to overcome the vacuum issue.  Or maybe your pin had the secret key with it — if so, would you mind letting us in on the secret???

I do love Pinterest!   Love everything about it — even if a very few of the ideas don’t work for me.  In fact, come back Sunday afternoon.  I have something planned in conjunction with Busy Monday that involves Pinterest and you.  An experiment you won’t want to miss!

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Quick Change Art

Dark Picture Frame taped for painting

Frame too dark for the space – a windowless bathroom.

 

Paint on a plate with brush and paint bottle

The solution to the problem!

 

Corner of picture frame painted silver

Two coats of silver paint later.

 

Picture of autumn trees on the wall

A much needed pop of color framed in silver brings light to a dark space and coordinates with the silver accessories elsewhere in the room!

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March recap:

Organize Your Financial Paper Series:  Use the documents gathered for filing your income tax return in Part 1 to prepare for emergency in Part 2, to set financial goals and plan ahead in Part 3.   More installments coming.

RecipesFour Bean Salad, No Bake Easy CheesecakeChicken Curry and Fruit Salad, and Wicked Simple Sweet Slaw.

 

 

 

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Painting switch plates and duplex covers

Brass Switchplate

Sometimes, it’s the little things that make the biggest difference.  When we first moved here, we immediately took down a wall that separated the living room from the kitchen and dinette.  Now you can see from the east end of the house to the west end – across three rooms.  We love the open feeling!  But if something is wrong in one part of the space – that’s visible from one end of the house to the other, too!

One of our kitchen upgrades pointed out the fact that we needed to replace all six of the original dingy switch plates.   I looked through the hardware store collections and to buy all six at once  – well, I tend to drag my feet when prices go over the limit I have set in my head.  So we lived with the old ones  while I continued to drag my feet.  Then Bingo!

A garage sale that looked so unpromising that we almost didn’t stop had a shoebox of brass switchplates, duplex covers in all sorts of combinations.  I sorted through, picked out what I needed and went to the seller.  25 cents each.  Then he reached into a plastic bag and counted out the screws I would need.  He was afraid they would get lost if he left them in the shoebox. I thought I would just reuse the screws from the ancient ones we already had!   I came home happy that I had gotten a great deal at $1.50!

Cleaned up those little metal squares and Wheels installed them the same day.  Now I know there is a great debate, at least in blogland, about brass and whether it is totally out of the picture or if it is making its way back.  Forget trendy — the brass winked and reflected things at me all day long.  Still, those little flashes of brass that caught my attention several times each day as I moved about  were such an improvement over the old  electrical plates that I could get along.  I’ll get to them someday. . .

Then we changed the countertop from yellow based to gray based.  Not only did those brass switchplates wink at me everywhere.  They clashed!  And we can’t have that!  Soooo —  out came the can of matte nickel spray paint!

Matte Nickel spraypainted switch plate Changing the color was so simple and took me less than five minutes, not counting drying time.  It went like this:

  • Remove switch plates, duplex covers, etc.
  • Wipe each one with a degreaser so they are absolutely clean
  • Push screws into a piece of corrugated cardboard so they are upright
  • Spray everything with an even, light coat of desired color
  • Dry and repeat with a second coat.  A third coat can be applied if needed.
  • Replace each piece.

Swith and Duplex covers spraypainted matte nickel
No more yellow metallic flashes blinking and reflecting.  Just calm, matte finish blending in with everything else.  Harmony restored!

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Have a joyous day!

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Top Eleven Posts for 2011

In no particular order, here are the most viewed posts from A Pinch of Joy in 2011 mixed with my personal favorites.     Check them out if you haven’t already done so!!  (Click on the title below the photo to see the entire post.)   Many of these posts have also been featured on other blogs, a delight and an honor.  Buttons for those blogs are found up above under Connecting — check them out!

Sunny Broccoli Salad

A huge number of people came looking for this recipe the three days before Thanksgiving.  Who knew so many folks ate broccoli salad for Thanksgiving dinner?  This is the best and good anytime!

Blushing Peach Pie with fresh peaches and crumb topping

Blushing Peach Pie

Wheels’  favorite!  With fresh peaches and superb combination of spices, it’s  sure to become your favorite too!

Hot cold pack rice bag with cover

Hot or Cold Pack Rice Bag

  A gift I made for my sister was the top most viewed post ever!  It includes  a tutorial and printable poem for your use.

Chicken salad with fruit and curry Fruit and Curry Chicken Salad

Festive and filling — a versatile salad or main dish any time of year.

Choosing and installing crown moulding

Choosing and Installing Crown Moulding

Part of our dining room makeover “series”.   So far only two are posted (see faux tray ceiling here), but there are more in the works.

Easy Microwave fudge made for gift giving

Best Easy Gift Fudge

was the most featured on other blogs.   And was gifted to almost everyone on our list!

Draft stopping fireplace balloon

Draft Stopping  Fireplace Balloon

This is the most consistently accessed post each week.

How to make an autumn banner

Autumn Banner

How to make a banner — adaptable to any holiday or event!

Cream Cheese toffee dip

Cream Cheese Toffee  Dip
A yummy dip anytime — but it makes the top ten because it was my very first post.

Pork chops with mustard and bread crumbs

Wicked Good and Easy Pork Chops

If mustard puts the devil into deviled eggs, it puts the wicked good into these pork chops!

Brie with nuts, cherries and sauce

Mile High Brie

Friends bring a pinch of joy to our lives . . . new experiences and great recipes, too!  Thanks to everyone who  passed on fabulous recipes and served as taste testers!  And thanks to all the  awesome blog friends who read this potpourri of ideas, inspiration, reports and reflections.   Everything is better when shared with a friend!

 

 

 

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Choosing and installing crown moulding

crown molding, corner blocks

Adding crown molding to our boxy  room was part of the Great Dining Room Makeover.  Love the extra charm and detail!  It makes the room look surprisingly bigger and  the white against the deep colored wall really pops!!  Best of all, it was easy to do.  The hardest part was making  decisions beforehand.  You, too,  can install crown molding in three easy steps!

1) Choose a moulding and style.  MDF is  lightweight and relatively inexpensive.  It is pre primed, ready to paint and, in general, handles just like wood.  This was the type we chose.  This was our first time doing this and I reasoned that if we messed up it would at least be cheaper than wood. (How’s that for confident decision making?!)  It went so well, that this material would be  first choice again.

Our ceiling is standard 8 foot height and the dining room is not large, so I looked for a  simple design.  We did want it to be noticed, though, so I chose a style that was about 4 inches wide.  Then came the decision about the corners.  One limitation was the choice to use a hand saw and mitre box, rather than buying a power saw with miter capabilities.  My somewhat reluctant and busy helpers might burn out if the job got too complicated or took too long.     So corner blocks it was.   I bought four inside corner blocks and four 12 foot lengths of crown molding,  which just fit through the ski door in my trunk and reached to the far corner of the windshield! Added a box of finish nails, a tube of caulk and we went to work!

2)  Installation begins by painting all moulding pieces your trim color.  Then install corner blocks.  Be prepared to rasp, sandpaper or cut away any excess material from the corner piece so it fits, although caulk and the crown moulding will cover small discrepancies.  Corner blocks come predrilled so you can toenail (nail at an angle to increase holding strength) them easily.   Chances of hitting a stud in the corner (the hold up your wall kind, not the movie star type) are good. Because a stud is solid wood, it will hold the nail and the weight of the moulding.  About 16 inches out, will be another stud. Use a stud finder or tap on the wall to hear the “solid” thud.  When you are certain you have found the stud, mark it; then measure and mark all the way across.

  Measure very carefully  between two corner blocks.  Mark this distance on a piece of crown moulding. Cut long if in doubt.  Using corner blocks means these cuts will be straight.  Position the crown moulding, with one flat side resting against the ceiling, and the other positioned against the wall.   Using your helper to hold one end against a corner block; nail the other end, putting the nail in just far enough to hold the moulding.

Go to the middle stud to fit the moulding snugly into place and, using finish nails, fasten into the wall stud.  Nail about the same place on the top of the moulding into the ceiling.  You might not hit a joist (big stud lying down on the job)  here, but all you need do is keep the moulding in place. Working toward the nail end, continue to fit and fasten about every other stud.  If necessary, you can pull out the nail on the end to reposition or shave the moulding.  Repeat going toward your helper.  By using the 12’ long mouldings, we avoided having to piece any of the runs.  Use a nail set to be sure all nails are in place.

3) Caulk.  I  finally picked up a “nice” caulking gun with a rubber grip and well constructed spring action.  What a difference!!   Only a few dollars more in cost than the cheap ones I had used before and so worth it!  Buy a paintable latex caulk.  Trim the end of the applicator at an angle, using as small an opening as you can. You can always cut it deeper, if needed.  Too big and you will have a caulk bead that “wanders” all over and a big mess.  Fill in any gaps and nailholes.  Take your time and use a wet light cloth (tee shirt)  wrapped around your finger to smooth as you go.

Done in less than half a day!  You’ll have the rest of the day to admire your handiwork!

 

 

 

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How to Use a Power Drill

A power drill makes all sorts of jobs easier, especially those repairs that can annoy no end waiting for “someone, someday”. They aren’t just for drilling either, so if you buy things with “some assembly required”, a power drill can be a real lifesaver. However, any kind of power tool can be intimidating at first. Pretty Handy Girl removes the intimidation factor and introduces us to the basics of using a power drill.   Use the information sheet that came with your drill to familiarize yourself with the parts of your drill.  Armed with that and the tipsPretty Handy Girl offers below — invincible!

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