How to make old art new again

How to change mat colors -  quick, easy and no cost  A Pinch of Joy

How to make old art new again.  And make it coordinate with new room colors.  And do it quickly,  easily and at almost no cost.   That was the challenge in our dining room makeover. 

I found this picture at a garage sale a few years ago.  Someone was selling off the almost new contents of their office,  including artwork.  This reminded me of a spot in one of our favorite hiking areas, a place called Highbanks,  in the spring time.  When I got it home, the title of the piece is “Spring”.  It’s pretty good sized – 48 inches by 38 inches –  and very heavy.  For a while it hung in the living room.   However, a perfect spot opened up when we did the dining room.  Except  the mat colors made it look way too heavy for the light, airy and meditative vibe I was going for.   Plus I didn’t think they really conveyed “Spring”.   

 

Wall Art.Old

So I unceremoniously turned the picture upside down on the dining room table and began to disassemble it.  I had pictures of the process but when we changed computers last fall, a whole bunch of photos came up missing.  (Yes, the mat colors above were edited in.)  So you’ll have to imagine the process.  It was very simple actually.

I experimented with the color swatches for several days, trying different combinations to pick up different portions of the picture.  I really liked the one that picked up the orangey color, but again the over all effect was not the serene feeling I wanted.  Finally I decided to go with the wall color and the color of the adjacent hallway.  They didn’t jar or call attention to themselves and blended with both the wall color (since it IS the wall color)  and the colors in the picture. 

 I carefully removed the dust cover so I would be able to reuse it.  Some are stapled on, the better ones are glued and a little tricky to get off in one piece.  A sharp thin knife helps.    Then I slipped out the mats, being very careful not to let them bend and become nicked or creased.  I placed them on a tarp on the garage floor, which was the only work place big enough to hold them both flat.

Then . . . .the secret to new mats that are quick, easy and  no cost.  Drum roll please. 

 The very same paint that was used to paint the walls.  Yes, just latex paint.  I used a small roller just wide enough to cover the entire mat and quickly did a light coat of their respective colors to seal and prime the mat itself.  When that dried in about 30 minutes.  I came back with another coat.  Thirty minutes later a third light coat.  I let them dry over night to be sure they were thoroughly dry and would not stick to one another or to the glass.

I carefully cleaned the inside of the glass (and missed one fingerprint at the bottom that no one else can see but that screams at me!).  Then I reassembled the entire thing, following exactly the same steps as in disassembling except in reverse.   The hardest part was getting the dust cover on straight and in one piece, but even that was fairly easy. 

There were so many options for color choice, but I like this one because it flows with the  strong wall color and does not compete with the wall or the picture.  That lets the print speak for itself.    It does that and quite clearly too.  When my friend saw it, she exclaimed “Oh, that’s the spot in Highbanks where my husband I go hiking.” 

 I don’t know if the artist even knew Highbanks existed when he painted it.  But it was great to know that the print elicited the same thoughts of hiking on a beautiful spring day in at least two people. 

  I like art that speaks to people! 

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How to Make a Christmas Garland in Six Easy Steps

Garlands are so versatile for Christmas decorating!  They can lay across a flat surface, like a mantel, hang from a railing, swoop around door frames, window or mirrors — and more.   The best part is:   Garlands don’t have to be disassembled for storage.  Next year, open the storage container and there is a glorious ready made decoration just waiting to bring you cheer!

Step 1 — Choose the foundation

Choose size and type of garland you want. This one is eight foot long, quite full and is frosted. If your garland is not prelit, and you want lights, work the string of lights into the branches. Make sure the plug in will end up on the correct end for where you plan to use the garland! Put most of the lights in toward the center of the garland and just a few on the tips.

Step 2 — Create a Framework

Select three colors and three design elements.

  • The largest sized design element will be the dominant element so what ever color you choose for it will also be the dominant color. When you are finished adding items of that size and color, they should be visible in 60 per cent of the garland. In our example, the dominant element is poinsettias and the dominant color is white. I counted the white from the frosted greenery as part of the 60% because it shows up more in real life than in the photos.
  • The second choice will be the – surprise — secondary color and element. Round Christmas balls are an easy element choice. They “go with” any theme and come in an array of colors and sizes. The individual pieces of this element are smaller than the dominant pieces – the mama bear of our triad. Visually this choice will make up about 25 – 30 percent of the finished project.
  •  And the third color will be the accent – the one that makes the others pop! It will be about 15-20 percent of the color visible in the finished garland – not counting the background green. The element pieces will be the smallest in size of the three types of elements.

Step 3 – Preparation

 Gather all your materials in one spot. (I like to work standing up at a counter.) Snip all stems, remove hangers from glass bulbs, get rid of price tags. You can do these thingsas you go along, but it is faster to do them assembly line style.

Step 4 – Measure

Divide garland into fifths. (You may want to do this on the floor so you have plenty of room.)  For an eight foot garland, one fifth is 19 inches. Place one of your dominant elements at each of these points.

Step 5 – Create

Here is where your creativity can take over!   Working with just one segment, begin to lay out, the different elements. Place them all over the width of the garland – not just in a straight line down the middle. Work first with the dominant color.   Repeat the dominant element in the segment as you like, in uneven numbers counting the “marker” placed in step 4 on your left. Because this color forms 60% of the finished product, you can add a smaller second element in your dominant color to create interest.

The key is to keep them all the same color and tone.  The example uses white snowflake as a lacy contrast to the solid looking poinsettia. Or use different sizes of the element – add small poinsettias in between the larger ones, for example. Place the dominant elements so they relate to one another visually– your eye moves easily from one to the other. From there, you decide when enough is enough!

Drop in the secondary element and color, so that it is about half of the visual“amount” in the segment as the dominant color. Again you can vary things as sizes, finishes (matte or shiny), clusters instead of singles. In general, use only one variation in order to avoid a cluttered look – especially if you used variations in the dominant color. The accent color can also vary, but less so than the other two colors. If you repeat one accent at regular intervals, adding a random variation is more pleasing to the eye. If you want your accent to fall only at random, it’s better to stick to just one element with no variation.

Step 6 – Assemble

When you have achieved a look that you like in one segment, use a hot glue gun to fasten each element to the garland. Be sure to use a low temp glue gun. High temp means just that – up to 400 degrees!  I learned “first hand”  (pun intended) how it can temporarily remove a fingerprint!   Low temp is uncomfortable on the skin, but can be peeled off without burning and,  in sufficient quantity, provides all the holding power necessary.  Keep fluffing the garland as you go along, so it doesn’t become flattened and one dimensional as you add the design elements.

Loosely repeat the pattern you developed in each of the four remaining segments. You don’t have to measure – just eyeball. This gives a feeling of movement and freedom in the finished garland. Then add one or two totally different elements in pleasing color, shape and proportion to the garland — just to break all the rules! You can alter the basic look from time to time by tucking in ribbon, strings of beads, feathers, mesh, or other things. Just keep in mind the 60 % proportion for the dominant color. For example, use wide red ribbon to loop around, through and below the garland, so red becomes the dominant color and white becomes the secondary color.

Finished – at night

Banister garland relfected in mirror

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How to make a pompom spider for Halloween

How to Make PomPom Spiders for Halloween tutorial

Halloween spooky but cute!  These spiders are the kind you won’t mind having in your house come fall!  They are made from yarn and pipecleaners so are inexpensive.  And they are quick and easy to make.  You (or an older child) can make several in an evening!

How to make a pompom

First create a pompom from black or brown yarn.  If you’ve not done one before, follow the easy steps above.    I used a piece of cardboard about 4 inches long and two and a half inches wide to wrap yarn around, but you can use the palm of your hand instead of cardboard.  I find I tend to keep wrapping tighter and tighter if I do it on my hand, but can control the tension better on the cardboard.  The more wraps you make, the fuller the body of your spider will be.  My yarn bundle was about two inches thick when I quit wrapping.  Slip the bundle off the cardboard and tie it as tightly as you can in the middle with a piece of yarn about 12 inches long.  If you plan to hang the spider, this is the time to add a fishline hanger tied around the middle as well.   Leave plenty of length for the hanger.

 Cut in the fold of the yarn on each side.  Holding the yarn tie, shake the yarn ball out upside down and begin to trim into a ball shape.  Turn and trim until you have a fairly uniform shape.  The closer you trim to the center the more “plush” is the finished spider.  I liked the shaggy look so quit trimming when I had a uniform ball shape.

Next add the legs to your spider.  Use four full length pipe cleaners.  Find the center by holding all of them in one hand while matching the ends andcreasing the four pipe cleaners with the other hand.  IF you are going to add button eyes (see below) add one more pipe cleaner before creasing.   Tie the bundle of pipe cleaners tightly to the body using the remainder of the yarn used to cinch the body together.   If you are making a small spider, cut the pipecleaners in half and assemble in the same manner.   When the bundle is tied, take the opposite end of each pipe cleaner and fold it across the body and snug it down tightly against the knot.  This keeps the legs from moving or pulling out of the knot when you are working with them.

If you are going to hang the spiders, go for the long legged look and leave the pipecleaners their original size.  Bend all four on a side at the same time and about 2 inches up from the bottom.  If you want your spider to stand, fold up an inch of pipecleaner on each leg before bending them.  I found the larger standing spider needed “feet” as well, to make it sturdy and steady enough to stand.  The little spider just has his pipecleaner legs folded up about an inch and pinched tightly together.

Making Button Eyes for yarn and pipecleaner pompom spider

If you plan to use your pompom spider where toddlers might reach them, create secure eyes, by threading the fifth pipecleaner mentioned above when you tied the leg bundle to the body.  I  used a plain white two hole button — but lime green buttons could be cute!   Push the button down close to the yarn ball before bending the pipecleaner and threading it through the second hole.  Pull the pipecleaner tight on the second hole and twist it together to secure the button.  Cut off any excess.  Push, pull and twist the eye into place — wherever it looks good to you.

If spiders are out of reach of toddlers, you can use stick on flirty eyes like I did or glue on googly eyes.   Work with the legs until you like the way your creations look and behave.   All done!  Stand back and admire!

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Gathered Sleeveless Dress for 18″ Doll with pattern

Gathered Dress for American Girl Doll

When I saw these colorful napkins on the clearance shelf of the grocery store, I also heard them calling out to become dresses for 18″ dolls, like the American Girl dolls!  Fifty cents each.  Twenty minutes each.  Small investment for cute dresses for Molly, Samantha and Robin!   Creating the pattern took a bit more time — but you can save that time and get yours  from this link: Sleeveless Gathered Dress.  You can also use bandannas or any other fabric that is already hemmed. Here’s how to make them:

 

That’s it!   All done! 

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18″ Doll Sleeping Bag

Sleeping bag and pillow for 18" AG Doll

With Valentine’s Day and birthdays this month, I am still in doll mode.  All three dolls need sleeping bags.   Well– more like I bought a new sewing machine and  needed to do some straight stitch practice.  And what better way to practice than by making sleeping bags?

First to determine the size of said sleeping bags.  This is an admittedly arbitrary process, at least the way I did it. But I’ll tell you the thought process so you can change if needed – or you can skip right down to How to. . . ..  Either way, you will save you a lot of time.  I figured an 18” doll would need a couple of inches on either end  or 22 inches.   And, more importantly,  my fabric happened to be just that measurement!   How wide to make the sleeping bag?  Hmmm  — dolly’s body is about 7 inches across so multiply that by two for top and bottom – that’s 14”.  She’ll need “uppage” too – add another 7 inches for dolly thickness.  I know she’s not that thick, but it’s a nice round number.  And another few inches for wiggle room.  Hey!  The fabric piece I had in my hand measured 54 inches wide and half of 54 is 27 inches.  I can make two sleeping bags from one 22 inch by 54 inch piece of fabric!  I cut the third bag using different fabric with the same dimensions.

Batting would give it a more realistic look – but make it harder to handle when tucking Molly (or Samantha or Robin) in.  So I decided to use batting only in the lower section.  The top could be folded back to keep the doll’s face uncovered. A pillow would compensate for lacking of padding under the head.  Again the measurement was arbitrary – based totally on the dimension of the fabric I wanted to use for the inside.  It was also 54 inches so it matched that of the outer layer and both were cut in half  – but the other dimension was 18 inches so that became the length of my inside layer and the batting.

How to make sleeping bag:

  • Each sleeping bag outer layer is 27 x 22inches before stitching.
  • Each inside layer was 27 inches by 18 inches before stitching.
  • Batting dimensions equal that of inside layer – 27 inches by 18 inches

Making 18" doll sleeping bag

Making the sleeping bag was much simpler than figuring the dimensions.  Since grain doesn’t matter in this project, lay the 27 x 22 inch fabric out on the table.  Pin the 27 inch side of the inside fabric and batting to the 27 inch end of the outer fabric, right sides together.  Using a one fourth inch seam allowance, stitch together.

Keeping right sides together, fold the entire piece in half.  Pin and stitch both sides, again using one fourth inch seam allowance.

For the bottom straps  Cut dollar store elastic headbands in two equal pieces,  make a loop and place it between the two right sides with the loop upward, before stitching.  I also notched the batting around the ends of the loop so the layers were not so thick.  (I swear I took pictures of that but Yahooti ate them – nowhere to be found!)  You can use grosgrain ribbon to tie or Velcro or omit this altogether, if you like

At the bottom on the side where the straps are located,  stitch halfway across.  Leave the other half open.

Trim corners across on an angle to reduce amount of fabric in corners. Turn so the right side is outward.  Pin the opening closed and top stitch.

18" AG Doll sleeping bags with pillow

Fold the sleeping bag in half.  The dimensions of the folded bag will be approximately 22 inches high and 13 inches wide.

Pin bottom together, right sides facing outward.  Pin sides together, beginning at the bottom corner, about halfway to two thirds of the length of the bag.  Push fabric back toward the bag center to keep seams tight and as thin as possible.  Place pins fairly close together to keep the layers from slipping.  Top stitch, beginning at the fold on the bottom and ending at the opening near the top of the bag.     Done!

Sleeping Bags for 18" AG Dolls with pillow

How to make pillow:

  • Cut one piece of fabric to 8.5 inches by 10 inches.
  • Fold right sides together to form 8.5 by 5 inch rectangle.
  • Stitch one short end and the long end closed.

  • Turn so right sides are out.
  • Cut three layers of batting 8 inches by 5 inches.   More layers = fatter pillow.  Stack layers and slide into pillow case.
  • Fold open edges into pillow and top stitch closed.  I used different decorative stitches on the two pillowcases going to the same household, so they would know which is whose.

 

Be sure to check out Busy Monday Link party for great ideas from around the web!  Previous parties are archived under the Connecting button on the tool bar at the top — just waiting to inspire you anew!

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Have a joyful day!

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American Girl 18″ Doll Clothes with pattern and tutorial

18" Doll Clothes from Dollar Store Items -- pattern and tutorial

I walked into the Dollar Store to pick up sandwich  bags.  As I passed a rack of scarves and hats, this teal and lavendar color combination caught my eye.  Hmmmm . . . I also had doll clothes on my mind as there are three little girls on my list that absolutely adore their American Girl and My Generation dolls!  I picked up the bags and returned to the rack of hats and scarves.   An idea had begun to blossom and as I sorted through the offerings, it began to take shape.  A ribbed hat that was pretty stretchy, a big scarf as wide as the doll body and a striped kid’s scarf to tie the colors together.  For only a $3 investment, I decided to see what that nubbin of an idea would turn into!

HAT:  Sorry –I got so wrapped up in making things happen, I forgot to take a picture of it before cutting.  But you get the idea of what it looked like.  The 18 inch dolls have a head that is 12 inches around.   This hat would stretch that far folded flat which meant it was 24 inches around so I knew it would make two hats.  I cut the top of the hat off as shown above, using about 5 and a quarter inches from bottom of hat to make the doll hat.

Knit cap cut to make doll hat

 For the individual hat, I folded the piece in half as shown and then cut the excess off the bottom side so both sides matched.  Then I stitched around the open sides with a straight stitch as a way of basting them together.  This knit was a double layer so I had to be sure I caught all the edges.  Then I zigzagged over the cut edges so the knit would not ravel.  And all done!

SCARF:  From the striped scarf that measured 22 inches by 5 inches, I made two doll scarves.  Fold it half, cut in the middle so you have two 11 inch long pieces, trim the cut ends to match the scarf’s ready made ends and zig zag.  Done in one sentence.

JACKETCUTTING:    Making the jacket was a little trickier.  The scarf was 8 inches by 54 inches.   I wanted to use the finished edge as the edge of my garment.  I didn’t have a long sleeved jacket in my pattern stash,   but I found a couple of patterns I could alter and mash together.  And then to figure out how to maximize the finished edge.   I began by using the ends and side to form the front of the jacket.

Front of doll jacket made from scarf

Fold the scarf in half, taking care to match the corners (or rounded corner) exactly.   I matched the front edge of the pattern with the long edge of the scarf and the bottom edge of the pattern with the end of the scarf.  Cut out the other two sides — around the neck and shoulders and around the sleeve and side.  Do not cut anything on the bottom or  front of the jacket.

Front of doll jacket

This is what the finished cut will look like.  Note the finished edges do not match the square bottom of the pattern.

 

Fold the scarf as shown and place the back pattern on the fold with the bottom edge on the finished edge of the scarf.

The cut out piece will look like this — note the finished edge on what will become the jacket bottom.

 

Fold scarf again so you can cut two sleeves.  Place pattern so bottom of sleeve is on finished edge of scarf.

JACKET ASSEMBLY:  Match front shoulder seam to back and stitch. Repeat for other side.  Match notches on sleeve to notches on armhole in jacket, placing right sides together.  Gently ease fabric around curve. Repeat for other side.  Beginning at bottom of jacket, place right sides together and stitch a continuous seam to bottom of sleeve.  Repeat for other side.  Turn jacket right side out.  Finish neck by running a zig zag stitch on the edge.

Done.  I cut both jackets out at once — but if you want to be really accurate or don’t want to handle  that many thicknesses at once, you can cut the first and then cut the second one from the second half of the scarf,  following the same sequence as above.  Repeat assembly directions for second jacket.

Two outfits, two hours and three dollars.

Jacket, scarf and hat for any 18″ doll.

Download jacket pattern here.

Have fun — you know the little one who receives this cute outfit will!

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Celebrating Ground Hog’s Day

Groundhog’s Day is always on February 2nd. The official groundhog is called Punxsutawney Phil because he lives in Punxsutawney, Pennsylvania in a burrow on Gobblers Knob.     According to legend, carried from Germany by early settlers, if the day is bright and sunny and Punxsutawney Phil sees his shadow there will be six more weeks of wintery weather. If the day is overcast and he does not see his shadow, the weather will begin to warm for an early spring.   The customs and stories make it a fun day to celebrate with kids.

Kidzone.com has a little Itsy Bitsy Book about Groundhog’s Day for younger kids to color and for adults to help assemble.  You can find the link to print it here.    Easy to follow directions are found here.

 

 

Make this sandwich with dark  wheat bread, peanut butter and jelly, a banana, a dark grape , and edible grass, such as shredded lettuce or tinted coconut.  Kitchen Fun With My Sons has  complete directions for this clever    Ground Hog lunch.

First little groundhog digs a home in the fall,
And curls up all winter rolled up like a ball.
Second little groundhog comes out of his lair,
On February second to get some fresh air.. .
To see the rest of this song and find  templates and suggestions to make groundhog figures to go along with it, go to DLTK kids.

A cute ground hog made from a fun sized candy bar perched atop a chocolate cupcake surrounded by  frosting.  Sweetology has how to directions and links to the inspiration along with cute photos of her adaptations.

Happy Ground Hog Day — sunny or cloudy!

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Get Well Bag

Bag packed with small comfort items for someone who is ill

Last fall,  I mentioned my sister Vee had surgery and a few weeks recuperation.  Having gone through that a couple of times myself, I’ve been surprised and pleased by the thoughtful little gifts people would bring when they visited.   Hand sanitizer when you can’t jump up and head for the sink, a lidded water bottle that is easier to handle than a hospital glass and straw, eyeglass cleaner when the glasses are gunked up from being put on and off a dozen times.    When you are stuck in a hospital room little things can mean a lot.    Or perhaps someone is under the weather and not quite mobile enough to get the little things needed for comfort.  A Get Well Bag takes care of  those problems!

You can make your Get Well Bag as big or as small as you like.  I purchased a vinyl tote bag (because I liked the matching note book and other accessories!) from Michael’s.    Here is a printable list of some things to put in a Get Well Bag.  Or just pick one or two to add to a card.  However you do it, your thoughtfulness will be appreciated.  The markers were included in the photo because I knew Vee would have little visitors – then they would not fit in the box for mailing – sorry!

Ruana and Hot Cold Rice BagVee also received the ruana from this post and the hot cold rice bag from this post.   Several people told me the ruanas were ideal for hospital or nursing home use.  Not only because they keep the shoulders warm and the back covered, but they are loose so they don’t get in the way of medical procedures.

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Heated rice bags

Now that everyone has been gifted their rice bag for Christmas, I can share three more.  A pair of hearts and two others for pure coziness.   Plus a quick how to so you can make as many as you want or need.  I used scraps leftover from other projects and making the two pictured above took less than two hours, including going through the fabric stash, cutting the right size pattern, and making everything.  You can probably do it in less – depending on how often you get side tracked in the fabric stash.  Or am I the only one?

The hearts are  a play on the old saying “cold hands, warm heart.”  I made round hearts to fit in a pocket.  Twenty seconds in the microwave and they hold heat for an hour or more.  Long enough to walk to the bus stop and wait for the bus.  Or to warm up hands that just scraped a windshield while the defroster works on the inside.   Or you can go the opposite direction and keep one in a zip locked sandwich bag in the freezer. It’s the perfect size to mold around little ones for minor bumps and booboos.

Making a rice bag heart   To make:  Cut four hearts and stitch about one fourth inch from the edge around the heart, leaving a one inch opening (where the scissors are in the photo).  Clip all threads and the curved edges as shown to reduce bulk.  Turn so the seam is inside by pulling the fabric through the opening.  Use a rounded blunt edge, like a table knife, to shape the heart from the inside, pushing all seams out.  Press.

 

To fill, make a funnel from a cone of paper and insert into opening.  Filling a rice bag with riceCarefully pour rice in until half full.  The size heart I used took about between half and three quarter cup of uncooked white rice – the cheapest on the store shelf.  You want something that will fit around the contours of your pocket and hand so the rice needs “room to move”.   Slip stitch the opening closed by hand for a finished gift look.

 

The longer one is designed to lie flat while going over both shoulders behind the neck to soothe chronic muscle aches. I chose a tightly woven medium/heavy cotton fabric. I cut it six inches wide — because that was the width of my scrap.  I would not recommend any smaller!   The length was determined by laying a tape measure along the line I wanted the finished rice bag to follow.  Came out to 23 inches so I cut it 24 , because you’ll need a half inch seam allowance for this larger, heavier rice bag.   Place right sides together and sew, using half in seam allowance, around three edges.  Leave one of the short edges open.

How to make a rice bag

Clip corners and turn so the right side of the fabric is now on the outside. Press.  Determine middle of closed narrow end and sew a straight line from there, right down the middle for the full length of the tube.  Stop about one inch from the open end.  Use your paper funnel to add rice to each channel.  I used between one and one and a half cups of rice to fill each channel just over half full.  Holding the open end closed, check to make sure the amount you use will allow the rice bag to mold around the neck and shoulders.   To finish fold the fabric in about half an inch on the open end, pinning to hold it in place.  Sew across the end. About 2 minutes in the microwave for soothing warmth. Optional:    I wanted the rice to be evenly distributed for each use without having to shove it in place.  So I pushed about half the rice in each channel to each end and stitched through the middle the short way as well.  You can see this in the photo at the top. Works great!

Extra Large rice bag with fasteners

Big wrap around is designed to fasten on an arm or a leg – or to make a muff to warm cold hands!   When open flat, it’s heavy enough to  stay in place and warm if laid  across the lap under a blanket or coat — say for football game or other chilly activity.

This one has four channels.  Three are full of rice.  The fourth smaller channel is designed to overlap the first channel, keeping the heat in and providing a sturdy place for tugging to open the hook and loop fasteners.  I used a fat quarter  — 18″ x 21″.  Sew two loop portions of fasteners on one 18″ end, referring to photo for placement.  Fold in half the long way, right sides together.  Stitch the two shorter open ends with a half inch seam allowance and turn.  Fold fabric in quarters and mark the fold with a pin on the closed length.  Reopen and stitch at the quarter mark from long fold to open end, forming the channels that will hold the rice.  Stop about an inch from the open end.  Fill three pockets, including the one on which the loop fastener is stitched, just over half full with rice.  Tuck open ends in and stitch closed.  Add hook portion of fasteners to unfilled channel, again referring to photo for placement and making sure to align with loop fasteners already sew in place.  Done!  Start with 2 minutes in the microwave and adjust time from there, if necessary to achieve coziness.

If you’d like to see another version with accompanying fleece cover, here is the one I made for my sister (and that inspired these!)  These ought to get us through a cold winter!

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Holiday Banister Garland

Snowflakes and white poinsettias and little red surprises garland their way down the banister.  White lights make a warm glow in the hallway and in the heart.  Five little snow girls and boys parade down the stairs.  You can tell the girls because they have bows on their hats!

We changed the colors in the hallway so I made a new garland to go with the new scheme.  I used the classic white, gold and red colors and the white poinsettia, snowflake/angel theme that our decorations have going.   Of course, this is just the beginning.   I’ve already added some things to the garland after this photo was taken yesterday!

The wreath on the inside of the front door marches to the same drummer. Poinsettias, snowflakes, red white and gold.   It’s another wreath I made once upon a time.  Even made the bow!   Hope your Christmas preparations are looping into a nice bow of memories. . . .

More Christmas house tour:  Mantel , PorchBanister garland,   Dining Room,        Christmas Tree        Linking up to some of the awesome parties found here

 

 

 

 

 

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