Five Things to know about replacing a chandelier

Replacing a Chandelier A Pinch of Joy

A chandelier is jewelry for your room.  It’s like the statement necklace or exquisite brooch that takes an outfit from good looking to beautiful.  Chandeliers come in a variety of sizes and styles to fit any room or decorating style. Replacing your  outdated light fixtures is an easy way to update a room. New lights add style, make a design focal point and provide illumination for living in that space.  Chandeliers can be used in every room of the house, but they are most often the light fixture of choice for a dining room.  Here are five tips to make choosing, installing and using your new chandelier easier!

1) Choose your style:  Stroll through any home store lighting department and you will find contemporary, traditional and every style in between, a variety of materials and sizes.  Choosing a chandelier is easier if you have some basics in mind before you stroll.  I knew we wanted  simple lines in a silver tone, soft white shades, a little on the large side to make it the focal point of the room.  I wanted a serene feeling to the room to encourage lingering over a meal.   Just those few elements eliminated a host of others and made the selection so much easier.  As soon as we saw this particular fixture, both Wheels and I said “Oh, there it is!”

This is the one that we replaced – a shiny brass one that went to Habitat for Humanity’s ReStore.

Chandelier

2)  Choose where to hang your chandelier.  Lighting for a dining room needs to illuminate the food and activity that center on the dining room table.  At the same time you don’t want it to shine in anyone’s eyes, whether seated or standing.  Hang the chandelier in the middle of the table location.  If the table will set in the middle of the room, as it does in our dining room, then the chandelier will also hang in the center of the ceiling. The size of the chandelier is loosely based on the size of the room and the size of the table.  Larger rooms will visually handle a larger chandelier.  A narrow table calls for a narrow chandelier so diners don’t bump it when they stand.  Our sleek silver light is 24 inches in diameter; the table is 40 inches across.  This means the chandelier leaves 8 inches of  clearance on both sides when the table is centered underneath.  That is pushing the recommended 10 inches of clearance on both sides – but I did want something on the large side to make a visual statement!

  The rule of thumb is to make the bottom of the chandelier hang between 30 and 34 inches above the table top.  Have someone hold the chandelier at the ceiling and shorten or lengthen the chain until you determine the best height for your situation.  Wheels is tall and Bytes is taller but the bottom of our new chandelier is thirty inches from the table.  The curvature of the arms that hold the light is such that the lights set above their line of sight even when standing.

3) Read and follow directions. Switching out old fixtures is pretty straightforward. In most cases, you simply remove the old and  attach the new fixture to the existing wires.  However, read the directions that come with the new chandelier.  They will tell you if additional support is needed to carry the weight of the chandelier.  Follow those recommendations.  If you’ve not done this diy task before, read through and understand the directions for removal of the old and installation of the new.  Straining to read small print with the electricity off, nightfall darkening the room and the baby crying is stressful!   If you don’t have a clear picture of the steps needed to accomplish this task, research it before you start.

4) Plan for safety. TURN OFF THE ELECTRICITY at the circuit box before beginning. Make sure you have the correct light bulbs before beginning (those directions again!) .  Go get the step stool or ladder, instead of standing on the padded dining room chairs (or worse!)  Gather tools you’ll need before starting.  Have a helper standing by to receive the old fixture and to help lift and position the new chandelier.  Leave a service loop when you shorten the electrical wire so you have enough to maneuver the new fixture and tuck everything into place.

5) Plan for versatility in your lighting.  If you don’t already have one, consider installing a dimmer switch.  This allows you to dim the lights and enjoy a romantic dinner for two or brighten them for a rowdy family birthday party for the two year old!  Do not exceed the recommended wattage, but you might want to use a lesser wattage for more even light.  Or clear bulbs vs tinted bulbs.   If there is room to set a lamp or two, or add wall sconces or place flameless candles on furniture pieces, consider the atmosphere options they will offer.   Lighting should make a room, the occupants, home furnishings and prized possessions look their best.

I found the ceiling medallion, new and in the package,  at a garage sale for $2, much less than at the store!  Here is how we created the faux tray ceiling and the chair rail installation is here.   This is much better, don’t you think?  

5 things to know before replacing a chandelier A Pinch of Joy

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How to make old art new again

How to change mat colors -  quick, easy and no cost  A Pinch of Joy

How to make old art new again.  And make it coordinate with new room colors.  And do it quickly,  easily and at almost no cost.   That was the challenge in our dining room makeover. 

I found this picture at a garage sale a few years ago.  Someone was selling off the almost new contents of their office,  including artwork.  This reminded me of a spot in one of our favorite hiking areas, a place called Highbanks,  in the spring time.  When I got it home, the title of the piece is “Spring”.  It’s pretty good sized – 48 inches by 38 inches –  and very heavy.  For a while it hung in the living room.   However, a perfect spot opened up when we did the dining room.  Except  the mat colors made it look way too heavy for the light, airy and meditative vibe I was going for.   Plus I didn’t think they really conveyed “Spring”.   

 

Wall Art.Old

So I unceremoniously turned the picture upside down on the dining room table and began to disassemble it.  I had pictures of the process but when we changed computers last fall, a whole bunch of photos came up missing.  (Yes, the mat colors above were edited in.)  So you’ll have to imagine the process.  It was very simple actually.

I experimented with the color swatches for several days, trying different combinations to pick up different portions of the picture.  I really liked the one that picked up the orangey color, but again the over all effect was not the serene feeling I wanted.  Finally I decided to go with the wall color and the color of the adjacent hallway.  They didn’t jar or call attention to themselves and blended with both the wall color (since it IS the wall color)  and the colors in the picture. 

 I carefully removed the dust cover so I would be able to reuse it.  Some are stapled on, the better ones are glued and a little tricky to get off in one piece.  A sharp thin knife helps.    Then I slipped out the mats, being very careful not to let them bend and become nicked or creased.  I placed them on a tarp on the garage floor, which was the only work place big enough to hold them both flat.

Then . . . .the secret to new mats that are quick, easy and  no cost.  Drum roll please. 

 The very same paint that was used to paint the walls.  Yes, just latex paint.  I used a small roller just wide enough to cover the entire mat and quickly did a light coat of their respective colors to seal and prime the mat itself.  When that dried in about 30 minutes.  I came back with another coat.  Thirty minutes later a third light coat.  I let them dry over night to be sure they were thoroughly dry and would not stick to one another or to the glass.

I carefully cleaned the inside of the glass (and missed one fingerprint at the bottom that no one else can see but that screams at me!).  Then I reassembled the entire thing, following exactly the same steps as in disassembling except in reverse.   The hardest part was getting the dust cover on straight and in one piece, but even that was fairly easy. 

There were so many options for color choice, but I like this one because it flows with the  strong wall color and does not compete with the wall or the picture.  That lets the print speak for itself.    It does that and quite clearly too.  When my friend saw it, she exclaimed “Oh, that’s the spot in Highbanks where my husband I go hiking.” 

 I don’t know if the artist even knew Highbanks existed when he painted it.  But it was great to know that the print elicited the same thoughts of hiking on a beautiful spring day in at least two people. 

  I like art that speaks to people! 

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More Pillowcase Dresses

Pillow case Dresses1

Sharing four more pillowcase dresses I made for a cause.

You can read about the Pillowcase Dress Drive here

and about the extraordinary young leader who initiated it here.

It’s not too late to start sewing!

All you need is twenty minutes (or less) and one yard of fabric (or less).

Here’s how to make a pillowcase dress – my version

Or check out my Pinterest Pillowcase Dress Board for more inspiration and tutorials.

Send completed dresses to: Mallory Fundora, Project Yesu, 1178 Willow Bend Drive, Clarksville, TN 37043

before May 28.

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How to Install a Chair Rail

How to Install Chair Rail

You can purchase 12, 10 or 8 foot lengths of moulding and trim. Before buying, measure the room and take note of windows and doors.  Determine the longest unbroken run and that will determine the length of the stock moulding.  For example,  if the measurement is over 10 foot, buy 12 foot long stock.  This will allow you to make as few splices as possible and save you time and work.  With a little thought, you can figure out how to make those three dimensions work in your room to make as few cuts as possible.  Just be sure the pattern is exactly the same in all lengths.  Remember when figuring length of stock that straight ends will butt up against door and window frames but that corners will require an extra inch at least in order to make the diagonal cuts necessary for fit.  (And don’t worry if you come out with a bit of extra footage — that’s your insurance policy against mistakes!)

All the woodwork in our home has been painted white, so when we purchase new trim or molding I go for the preprimed stock.  I also give it at least one coat of the finish paint before doing anything else with it.  It’s much easier to paint when it is laying flat and no worries about getting paint on a wall.

Once you’ve  determined the height of your chair rail, and are ready to install, grab your tape measure and level to make a level line along the whole length of the room.  Floors are not always level, so measuring up from the floor could give you a wavy line. It might be parallel to the floor but make you seasick to look at it!  

chalk line

A quick way to make a line is to measure up from the floor at two points and have a helper hold one end of a chalk line while you draw the line taut, hold it securely in place and snap the line.  Check the level of the line it’s full length with a carpenter’s level.   Adjust as needed to make sure the finished line is level all the way round the room. A good laser level (the kind that comes with it’s own tripod) can be helpful, especially if you working solo.  In that case, get the beam set across the entire wall and check the measurements from the floor at several places to make sure the rail will be installed where you expect it to be.

In new construction, workers will often cut all the moulding before installation.  Our experience in older homes is whatever the project,  it is better to cut as you go. That way it’s easy to make minor adjustments and to custom cut each piece so it fits perfectly – or at least as close to perfect as it can get.  One wall in our dining room has a very noticeable bow.  You can actually measure where it dips in a full ¾ of an inch!  . 

Chair Rail6

The cutting and installation was Bytes’ contribution.  I’m on the other end of the tape measure, holding long boards when they are being sawed and acting as general picker upper and gofer.   (Wheels’ long work hours keeps him in an advisory position :-) )    The dining room was our first trim project in this house.  We weren’t sure how it would work out or if we would want to do another one again.  Minimal investment was to find the hand miter saw in the garage so Bytes did all the work in  by hand.  It was a little more time consuming but not hard to do.

Begin installing at an inside corner .  Measure from the corner to the next natural stopping place.  That may be a door, a window or the next corner.  Doors or windows generally call for a straight cut on your moulding.   Inside corner cuts are done at a 45 degree angle with the part of the moulding that goes against the wall the longest part of the angle.  We call those “innies” because the cut goes in towards the wall with the longest part next to the wall.   Both pieces of moulding are cut the same at the corner.  They will butt up against each other and make a square corner.

 An outside corner is cut with the longest part of the moulding on the outside and the short cut right on the corner of the wall.  Those are “outies”  If it is necessary to splice two pieces of moulding, make 30 degree cuts.  One piece will be an innie and on the second piece the cut will be an outie.  It doesn’t matter which is which as long as you are consistent in the way you cut the splices thoughout the room.

Chair Rail4

To install, put the bottom (or top if that’s the way you measured — no right or wrong way)  of the molding on the level line that you drew.  Check to make sure the moulding is level before beginning nailing.  Use a 2 /12 inch finishing nail at the high parts of the molding to prevent splitting. If the chair molding is narrow, one nail every 12-18 inches, depending on the placement of the wall studs, will suffice.  Wider molding may need a nail at the top and another at the bottom directly below the first.   We did it the classic way with a hand held hammer!

Use glue ONLY when joining one piece of trim to another, if then.  We didn’t.  It is not be necessary to glue the trim to the wall because the nails will hold it securely.    In fact, if you (or the next owner) want to remove the trim at some point, glue will turn that job into a very expensive and time consuming mess. Removing something glued to wall board generally destroys the top layer at a minimum, requiring patching, and can ruin the board to the point that it must be replaced entirely.  

Use a nail set to recess the nail heads just below the surface of the wood. 

This is where I begin to prepare the trim for painting.  Fill the nail holes with paintable caulk or joint compound. Apply a bead of paintable caulk to the edge of the molding where it meets the wall, and fill in any other holes or gaps if needed.   Paintable caulk is what we used in the dining room.   Test its paintability in a corner before doing the whole room if you haven’t used that particular brand or kind before, because results can vary.  You can also use joint compound to fill in openings and cracks. Use either one sparingly.   A wet rag or sponge to wipe up excess with both is very helpful. 

Sand smooth when dry.  I picked up a set of small scale power tools at a garage sale a couple of years ago.  The contractor selling them considered them a joke gift he couldn’t wait to get out of his sight.  Well, I  looove them!!!    They are all lightweight, which is a big consideration for me.   The detail sander with its 3 inch triangular head is just the perfect size to make sure the places that were filled are smooth and as invisible as possible.

To finish the project, apply your choice of paint to the chair rail to give it a clean, finished look.

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How to determine where to place a chair rail

A Pinch of Joy: How to determine where to place a chair rail

A chair rail adds interest and polish to any room, bringing instant character and definition.   The term may have originated from the Shakers who used rails with pegs to hang chairs so floors could be easily swept.   Many people think they are  intended to protect the wall from backs of chairs that were pushed up against it and they do sometimes serve that function.  However as far back as the Romans, wood pieces have been most frequently used to divide walls  for design and architectural interest.

But how do you know where to place the chair rail on the wall?  Is one place better than another?  I am so glad you asked!!!!  Because there are answers.

Ancient Greeks searched for mathematical formulas to determine the perfect number, perfect chord, and points of  perfect balance in their work.  Renaissance architects and artists build on the Greek search for perfection.  They decided that the relationship of five to eight created this perfect   balance.  This translates very easily when working with an eight foot high wall in the average house.

To determine chair rail placement according to the classic principles, it works this way mathematically:

8×12 (number of inches in a foot) = 96 inches

96 inches ­divided by 5 (the pleasing ratio)  = 19.2 inches

No dining chair is that short so a chair rail installed at that height is pointless

But — two units are 38.5 inches.

Measure that distance up from the floor.

Chair Rail Apinch of JoyThat’s where the chair rail belongs.  You can make 38.5 inches the top or bottom or middle of your chair rail.  You can see that measurement falls just above the high point of the chair rail in our dining room.    As long as you keep the rail  close to that ideal distance, it will be most pleasing to the eye.  In turn, you also create a more pleasant room.

This is called the golden ratio or the divine proportion.  It was used in the construction of the Pyramids, the Parthenon, and Notre Dame Cathedral.   Artists use this principle in their work.  A notable example is DaVinci’s painting of the Last Supper where the table top height horizontally and the amount of space taken up by Christ in the center of the painting vertically both fit into the golden mean.   (That art history class finally paid off!  Hurray!!!!)

If for some reason a chair rail at that height will not work in your space, here’s an alternative that is also used by photographers and artists on the fly because it is easier and faster than figuring the golden ratio.  Many builders also use it as a default measurement for installing chair rails.  It is the rule of thirds.  A space divided into thirds is also pleasing.

An eight foot wall divided into thirds would be:  96 inches high divided by three equals 32 inches.  The top of the chair rail would also be pleasing at 32 inches if you need to go shorter than the golden ratio measurement.  Alternatively, if the style of your house will handle it, a chair rail installed at 64 inches from the floor would also be within the rule of thirds.  A chair rail this high often has a plate rail installed at its top.  Not coincidentally that is the perfect location for artwork on an eight foot wall.

We chose the Golden Ratio in deciding where to place the chair molding in our dining room make over.  You can read about the  faux tray ceiling here and  wallpaper removal here.  Coming next  is how we installed the chair rail and, in part 2, how we installed the picture frame moulding below the chair rail.

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How to Make a Pillowcase Dress

A Pinch of Joy: How to Make a Pillowcase Dress

Pillowcase dresses are so quick and easy to make!      They are cool and comfortable, perfect for warm weather!    You can make them from . . . tah dah. . . an actual pillowcase.  Or find  cute and colorful fabric and create a dress to match a personality.    Pillowcase dresses are so easy a beginner can make one.   

You will need approximately one yard of 42″ – 45″ sturdy fabric, and 2.5 yards of 1″ wide grosgrain ribbon for each dress you plan to make.  All dresses are made from the full width of the fabric.  Only the length will vary.    If the child for whom you are making the dress is available, measure from the base of the neck down to the point on the leg where you want the dress to end.  Add 5 inches *  to that number to allow for casing and hem folds.  That is the length you will need.  Or you can check the size chart here to determine the length of the fabric you will need.  

Disclaimer:  I recently made several of these dresses in one sitting so don’t let the different fabrics throw you.  I don’t think I remembered to take pictures of all the steps for any one dress!  Sorry – -

Preparing the fabric

Prepare the fabric.  This cotton fabric had a crooked end.  To straighten it, make a cut about  into the fabric about 1 inch from the edge.  Firmly grasp the fabric in both hands and rip it straight across.  The rip will follow the threads and create a straight line. You can use the same method on the other end only make the cut at the point that is the correct length for your dress.    Beginner note:  The white in the picture above is called a selvage (from “self edge”).  The weaving process creates a tight edge on the sides of the fabric that will not fray. (Not all selvages are white.)   Match the selvages together so the fabric lies smooth and the right sides are together.  

Ironing the seamStitch along the selvage, making a seam about 1/4 inch wide.  You will end up with a fabric tube with the right side of the fabric inside.    Press the seam to one side.  It will be in the center back of the finished dress.   You can press it down with your fingers, but an iron makes a sharper crease that will stay.  

cut armholePlace the seam you just sewed on the center crease of the fabric.  Beginner note: The center crease is the one that shows from when the fabric was on the bolt. If it doesn’t show, lay the fabric on your table to the stitched end lays flat and is on one side.  The fold  created on the other side will fall on the center.  Mark the fold with a pin or a light pencil mark. Place the seam at that point.  Keep the right sides of the fabric together.  Fold the fabric in half with the seam to the inside.  The armholes are cut on the side with TWO folds.  Mark a point two inches in from the two folds on the end of the fabric.  Measure 5 inches down and mark on the fold.  Connect the two points with a “J” curve as shown in the picture.  Cut the armholes. 

Press hems

  If you are making more than one dress, take thirty seconds to make a template for the casing and the hem.  The measurements for the casing and the hem are the same on every size dress.  Having a template will save you tons of time!   I used the back of an instant oatmeal box to make mine.    On one side, measure down one inch on the two ends.  Mark those two points and draw a line connecting them.   On the other side, make your line one and a half inches from the edge.  I recommend using an iron and doing these next steps on your ironing board or padded surface.  Pressing in the creases you need before sewing is another big time saver for all your projects. 

With the wrong side of the fabric still on the outside, place it on your work surface.  On the end between the armholes, use the one inch template.  Place it on the fabric near the edge.  Fold the fabric over and adjust the template and fabric until the fabric lies smooth.  The edge of the template should be in the fabric fold and the edge of the fabric should be on the one inch line.  Press the fold with an iron on medium heat.  Set aside the template and make a second fold toward the the center of your garment.  This fold is right at the cut edge of the first fold.  Press that to make a double fold.  This forms the casing for your ribbon.

Repeat this procedure at the bottom of the dress, using the one and a half inch template.  This becomes the hem of the dress. 

A note about hem widths:  I made my finished hems one and a half inches wide.  Many instructions only call for a one inch hem.  You can make hems as small as one fourth inch wide.   (*Note: adjusting the hem will change the amount of fabric required.  The five inches added to find the length of fabric above will become 2 inches for the casing folds PLUS double the width of the hem.  For example, if you make the hem one half inch wide, you would add three inches to your child’s measurement instead.)

If you are making just one dress, you can skip making the template.  Just measure the casing and the hem directly on the fabric, pinning it into place.  Pressing the folds before sewing will still give you a crisper, more professional finished look.

Phew!!!  That took way longer to explain than it will take you to actually do it!

Finish armholes

There are two ways to finish the armholes.  Some people prefer to use bias tape.  I just put in a quarter inch hem.  Beginner note: While the fabric is still on the work surface, fold over 1/4 inch of fabric all the way around the armhole.  If fabric does not lie flat, use the point of your scissors to snip from the edge to the fold.  This will open the curve and flatten the fabric.   Repeat the quarter inch fold to make a double fold.  Pin if needed to hold fabric in place.  Press and then stitch hem in place.

Stitch hem and casing

Stitch hem near open edge.   Stitch each casing between the armholes in the same way.   Beginner note: At the end of each casing reverse the stitch without cutting the thread.  This means you will stitch backward for a few stitches.  Release the reverse button and stitch forward again until your needle is off the fabric.  The triple stitching that you create this way, makes the end of the stitching stronger.  It will be better able to resist tearing out if the ribbon is pulled too hard.  

Insert ribbon

Cut two pieces of ribbon, each 45 inches long.  Fasten a safety pin on one end of a ribbon and begin to work it through the casing.  

Scrunch ribbon

Push and scrunch the pin through the fabric, smoothing out gathers along the ribbon.  When pin and ribbon emerge on the other side, pull the ribbon through so that an equal amount is on either side.  Pull the second ribbon through the second casing and adjust ribbons if needed.  Find the center of each casing (measure or eyeball, either one).  Stitch from the edge of the dress to the line of stitching, reverse to the edge of the dress and come forward to the line of stitching again.  This creates a strong line of triple stitching to hold the ribbon in place so it does not come out when laundered. 

Done

 

D O N E !!!

Shown are three of the nine dresses I made in the last couple of days for a special donation.  Please join me in sewing for a cause.

Details are here.

You can leave your Pillowcase Dress plain as I did or your can add pockets, ties, ruffles and so much more.   Check out my Pillowcase Dress Board on Pinterest here for inspiration!

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8 things to know about how to remove wall paper

8 things to know about How to Remove Wall paper from A Pinch of Joy

The first house we owned was a three story Victorian.  The second and current house is a two story Seventies Special.  What do they have in common?  Wallpaper.  Although wallpaper is a trend that comes and goes, it is still a classic solution for rough walls or providing an accent.  What goes up, must eventually come down.   Here’s what I’ve learned about how to remove wall paper:

1) The Victorian had plastered walls.  First narrow wood strips called lathe was nailed to the stud, a rough coat of plaster was then applied.  When it dried, a finish coat of plaster was laid over the top and polished smooth by a skilled craftsman.  Properly applied and maintained, it produced a durable surface.   To remove wallpaper we found hot water and a clean garden sprayer were most effective.   Working in four foot squares, Wheels would saturate a section, going over it until it was wet and almost dripping.  Then he would move to the next  section and begin to saturate it. 

After about five minutes I would begin to test the first section, using a putty knife to see if I could separate the paper from the plaster wall.  Let it set too long and you could damage the plaster so focus and repeated testing was key. When wallpaper paste softened sufficiently, paper would peel easily away without damaging the plaster.     Often the paper would come off in big chunks and all that was necessary was to wash the glue off the plaster and wipe it dry.   We could do a wall in an evening and were confident in our ability.    

Then we moved and our experience grew in depth and breadth. 

2) We prepared for the project the same way.  Remove furniture from the work area.  Shove it to the other side of the room, in other words.  And put down drop cloths. Remove electrical faceplates.  We acquired a little gadget that looks like a mouse only it with spiky gears on the bottom instead of the roller ball.  The spikes of the scorer pierce the wallpaper so  liquid can penetrate and soften the adhesive.  These are all good things.   

3) Successful wallpaper removal depends on something over which you may have no control, especially if you are not the first owner.   Primed wallboard.   If you find yourself trying to remove paper from unprimed wallboard –it can be done (see #4) but you have my sincerest sympathy!  Best is preventive. Never, ever, ever put wallpaper on wallboard that has not been primed and/or painted.   

4) Strippable paper only means that the top layer can be pulled off.  You will still be left with a layer stuck to your wall.  It was a snow day and nothing was moving when we decided to work on the powder room.  The wallpaper also was not moving, so we filled all the pans we could find with boiling water and put them in the closed room.   Bytes dived in with a putty knife when visibility had been reduced to zero by steam and began scraping.  It worked. 

5) Not all adhesives are created equal.  Our next project was the kitchen soffit –  20 feet in length 12 inches wide.  That paper came off inch by painful inch over many long days.   It was probably made by Wall Armor.  We tried every trick we knew or ever heard about then Bytes googled for more.   But lessons learned:

6)  There are many options for a solution that will soften adhesive.  Fabric softener is one.  Mix equal parts of fabric softener and very hot water in a spray bottle.  Vinegar and very hot water in equal measurements mix in a spray bottle is a second option.  For these solutions, spray about a four foot square and let it set for five minutes before scraping it off.  These may or may not work on a particular adhesive, but you won’t know until you try.  Another option is a commercially prepared adhesive softener. There are several different brands. Follow the directions on the label.  These, also, may or may not work.   

7) Listen to the crew.  That below the chair rail paper in the dining room was also made by Wall Armor.  And stuck down with NASA rocket glue.  Bytes and Wheels were not swayed by my “I don’t want to spend money on equipment that will just set in the garage forever between uses” argument.  One hour and two feet of semi-cleaned wall and they were off to the home improvement store.  And they came home with a wallpaper steamer.

 Wallpaper Steamer

8)  The right equipment makes the job so much easier!  This little $50 wonder made the dining room project so much easier.  We turned around and used it again a few months later in the office makeover.  It uses all the most successful factors from all the other methods we’ve used –strip the top layer of paper off, score the remaining layer, apply steam in a controlled area to quickly soften the adhesive without damaging the wall underneath.  If you do run into a tough patch, the adhesive softeners  give  the boost needed to get the paper off.  The wallpaper steamer has saved so many hours, so much frustration and effort! 

Wallpaper Steamer in actionAdd water to the steam unit.  Steam moves up the hose to the applicator (on the left).  Place the applicator over the wallpaper to be removed and hold it in place until the adhesive loosens.  Scrape off the paper and adhesive (on the right).  Repeat until done.  Wash wall with sponge and warm water.  Ready for a new look! 

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Why and How to Keep a Garden Journal

A Pinch of Joy Garden Journal

A garden is an ever changing story!  Keeping a journal helps in both the story telling and the evolution.   A garden is also an investment of time and energy and money.  A journal can help you maximize your investments. People garden for different reasons. Some enjoy the beauty of flowers.  Others concentrate on food production, either for healthy organic produce or perhaps to stretch a budget.   Some love the exercise and chance to be in touch with nature.  Whether you have only one reason or all of the above, a journal will help you meet your goals.  A journal will make the journey more memorable and more fruitful in so many ways.  

 You can note where you bought that hard to find tool that helps so much.  I loved a short handled ergonomic spade that was t.h.e. perfect garden tool.  It was just the right size for short me and was built to multiply the force applied.  Unfortunately applied force and an unyielding rock broke the handle sometime after its eighth birthday.  No way to replace it because I don’t even know the brand name!   Make notes of the dimensions of the different areas in your garden as you measure during the season.  Next year,  when you purchase mulch or topsoil, the figures are right there to save you time and energy.  Keep the phone number of that arborist who cleaned the yard so thoroughly after pruning your trees.  Or the high schooler who mowed your lawn while you were gone.

 In a journal you can record what worked and what didn’t.  Note which flowers bloomed when and how they interacted with their neighbors.   Next season, you might want to move them so colors enhance each other.  Put a white plant next to the red, or create an ombre effect with the pink and purples.  Intersperse non-blooming green through the garden to make a unifying ribbon.   Or maybe move a second plant that will come into full bloom and hide the scraggly remnants of an early bloomer.  If you have a cluster of plants that are pure eye candy, be sure to note that!    Keep track of which plants did poorly.  Perhaps the neighbor’s tree is now shading the struggling plant and it needs to be moved to a sunnier spot.  Or maybe it needs to be replaced with a healthier cousin.

Add photos to supplement your notes.  They will help remember what a cosmos looks like, or how that runty shrub doesn’t hide the eyesore you wanted it to camoflauge even though it’s been there several years.   A photo will jog your memory of the eggplant or Brussels sprout that shaded out the carrots. It is fun to look back and see how an area has changed from skinny plants with lots of mulch in between to something lush and beautiful.  Photos of the good are a wonderful reminder of why we garden!

A calendar serves as a reminder.  Note when you prepared the garden in the spring, what chores you did in the fall for your own custom made reminder and to do list for following years.  When was tomato harvest in full bloom?  When was the green bean harvest at full peak?  If your mother wants to have the annual family get together two states away when your tomatoes were begging to be picked last summer, you can choose a different variety that matures two weeks later this year.  If the green peppers freeze before producing two (or yes, four!) years in a row, you know to plant earlier or choose a variety more suited to your gardening zone.   

For the next chapter of the story, a journal helps  you  make plans for the future.  Include pictures or notes of things that inspire you.  Even if it is just one element in a garden scene, that element may be just what is needed to make your garden come alive next year.   Start to bring things to life by making those elements that you find attractive, a part of your garden goals.  Perhaps a hardscape, like a retaining wall, caught your eye.  Or a long term investment, like that exotic gingko tree.  Or maybe it is a colorful pot of pansies by the door in spring.  Planning gives one hope through the long winter and a jumpstart in spring! 

You can download your own copy of my 2013 Garden Journal here.  If you have any ideas of what you would like to see included in a future version that would make your gardening more fun and more productive, please let me know! 

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Clean Your Refrigerator in Three Days – Day Three

  A Pinch of Joy: Clean Your Refrigerator in Three Days -Day 3

We’ve broken a big job into three smaller components that you can do at different times.  Small task components help utilize your time and energy more efficiently, to work around physical limitations or demanding babies, to reduce stress and find time for you.  This little secret of breaking a big job into smaller ones is invaluable!

You can find Day One  and Day Two by clicking the links.  Today we pay attention to the freezer compartment.   Cleaning the freezer is  easy because generally it does not get the traffic or the spills that the refrigerator compartment does.   I leave the refrigerator running as I do this because it is a fairly quick process.   I also usually plan cleaning the refrigerator/ freezer just before a stock up time so the shelves are somewhat empty.

First, remove the ice bin and dump the ice cubes.  If you have a garbage disposal, run the ice through to clean it.   I’ve also heard that keeps the disposal blades sharp, but I’ve just taken that as a fact.  Not sticking my fingers down there to find out!  Running ice through will help clean the disposal, as it tosses sharp ice chunks around and down the drain.  Let the cold water trickle during the process and be prepared to give a shot of hot water if a clog develops.

A Pinch of Joy: Refrigerator Freezer

In the meantime, wipe down the walls of the freezer compartment where the ice maker and bin belong.  Use warm water and a sponge.  My manufacturer’s manual says to add soda to the water if there are any odors in the freezer.  Wipe down the door gasket and the area where the gasket rests when the door is closed.   By now the ice should be through the disposal (bonus chore done!).  Wash the ice bin with warm water.  Use soda, sponge and elbow grease to remove any buildup.  Vinegar will also help remove buildup and is safe to use around food.   If there are any crevices in the ice bin and mechanism, pay special attention to them using a small brush or a toothpick point if needed.   Dry and replace the bin.

Clean the door shelves.  In my refrigerator these are not removable so I wipe them with a wet and squeezed sponge.  Mostly I use these for storing gel ice packs, nuts for cooking and, sometimes, Bytes’ burritos and other small things that might be needed quickly without a lot of hunting.  If the shelves in your refrigerator are removable, wash them with soap and water in the sink or throw them into the dishwasher with another load.   BTW,  I am compelled to tell you — those lines across the door pictured above are perforated vent holes, NOT dirt! :-)

Begin with the top shelf.  Remove and sort through all the food, setting it on the counter or in empty laundry basket.  Wipe the walls, clean the shelf and replace the foods that belong there.   Move onto the next shelf.

A Pinch of Joy: Discard!

Discard anything that looks like this!  The USDA says that frozen foods will not spoil, but anything with freezer burn has lost its good qualities of taste and texture.  Out!   Click the link for a printable USDA  Freezer Storage Chart showing the optimum storage time of various foods at 0 degrees.

The refrigerator freezer is where I keep packages of vegetables, frozen dinners for quick meals and opened packages of frozen food.  These things get “lost” in the bigger freezer  and eventually just thrown away.  In the refrigerator freezer, I know what I have and where it is.  That package of peas that was opened to add half to a salad gets the other half added to a pot of soup because I will see it and remember to use it.  I also store meat here that I’ve purchased for a special recipe (usually for you, my lovelies!)  and sometimes it gets sidelined, like that package above.  For the most part however, using this method has greatly reduced the amount of food that has to be thrown out.

Drain

By now, we are at the bottom of the freezer where there is often a drawer.  Remove.  Don’t ask me how, but this area seems to collect dust, especially around that opening at the back.   The opening on yours may look differently or be located in a different spot.  It is where the water from the self defrosting process drains to a pan below where it evaporates into the air.  Clean by pouring or squirting  a  solution of 1 teaspoon soda mixed into two cups of hot water into the opening.  This water will also evaporate into the air.  You can do this regularly as a preventive or when necessary if you notice odors.

drawer

Clean the drawer area, wash the drawer in the sink with warm water, dry and replace in freezer.  Add food.  This is where I keep the larger opened packages of things like chicken breast.  And the inside of the refrigerator/freezer is all done.

We still have about ten minutes left in our thirty minutes allocated.  Clean the outside of the unit.  We did the top on Day ONE so no need to repeat.  Use your favorite cleaner– squirty stuff or mix in water stuff or special stainless cleaner.  Clean the doors and any sides that can be reached. Pay special attention to door handles and any crevices.  Thoroughly clean the water dispenser if you have one on the door.  Vinegar will help remove any water stains.

Basket

One last tip to help keep things in order for the next cleaning – and to make your life easier everyday.  That wire bin that holds the bags of vegetables is wonderful.  If you know me, you know I seldom pay regular price for anything.  I did for that basket and it was worth every penny!   You can pull it out, rifle through to find what you want and push it back in.  No balancing act or scooping packages off the floor necessary.

Shhh!  I know you should also clean underneath and behind but let’s do that when we deep clean the kitchen.

2

Just keepin’ it real – many refrigerators have something magnetic stuck on them.  This is the time to throw away the magnet phone number from the dentist that retired, the broken seashell from your beach visit 10 years ago or whatever else.  We live far from family so Christmas card photos often end up on the freezer door for most of the year.  It gives me joy to see them each day.  Display only the newest and arrange neatly.  Those drawings by a three year old framed with blue paper also give me joy  – I’m the one wearing earrings on your left!

And now you have a sparkling clean refrigerator inside and out, a system to manage the contents  and haven’t let anything else in your busy life slide to do it!   Enjoy!

Links to   Day 1   Day 2

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Clean Your Refrigerator in Three Days – Day Two

A Pinch of Joy: Clean Your Refrigerator in Three Days - Day Two

Last week I shared with you a secret for which you would  have to pay hundreds of dollars normally.  But you got it here for Zero dollars!!!  The secret:  Have a job you dread, that is overwhelming, that needs to be done but you have too little time and/or energy to tackle?  Break that job into smaller chunks and you will be amazed at what you can accomplish without taxing your resources!  Don’t save this secret but start to apply that little secret to everyday jobs. No more letting things go until “you have time to get to it” while whatever chore it is continues to build, getting worse and more time consuming.    Things that used to drive you crazy because you know they need to be done, but you “just don’t have time”, will get accomplished easily.  And you will have  peace of mind that will let you enjoy life!

Last time we cleaned the door and the top of the refrigerator.  You can read about Day One here.   This week we are cleaning the refrigerator compartment itself.  Some folks will want to turn off the refrigerator to save energy.   And then you have the debate: does that save enough energy to compensate for the extra time needed to cool back down.  We are only going to allot about 30 minutes to this chore.  For me, I vote to leave it run — especially since I can barely reach the hard to move off switch at the very top and furthermost corner of the refrigerator.  You do what you think best for you.

A Pinch of Joy:  Clean Your Refrigeragor in Three Days - Day 2

Start with the top shelf.  Remove all food from the shelf, discarding any that is unusuable.  I use this time to also get rid of things that are on the edge of their storage life.  I usually time refrigerator cleaning just before I know I am going to restock the basics.   Sometimes I will put refrigerator soup on the menu for that evening — a beef based soup that will handle all sorts of leftover veggies, bits of meat. In that case, I empty them all together in one container.  Other times,  stuff will go right into the empty plastic grocery bag I put on the counter for the purpose of transporting discards to the trash can.  Empty containers go directly in the dishwasher.

When the shelf is empty, wash it with warm water.  This is the only way I have discovered that is effective.  Rest the shelf on the sink divider and wash in running water with a plastic scrubber.  If you need to scour, use baking soda and the sponge.  Soda’s grittiness will take off sticky substances, but is safe for using around food.  Rinse and dry.  Wipe the sides of the refrigerator with the sponge, again using soda as needed.  Replace each shelf as it is cleaned.  I usually let the food set out so I can see and “sort” before putting it back when everything is clean.

A Pinch of Joy: Clean Your Regrigerator in Three Days - Day Two

I clean the bottom drawers in the sink, as well, with running water.  A squirt of dishwashing detergent can be helpful, especially if something yucky had been residing on the bottom.

A Pinch of Joy: Clean Your Refrigerator in Three Days - Day Two

The hard part:   In most refrigerators the area under and behind the drawers can collect small items that have been dropped  and drips from spills can linger unnoticed until the drawers are removed.  It’s easiest to take the water to the refrigerator.  I have a beat up pan that works just great for cleaning — just the right size for rinsing and squeezing out a sponge.  A brush can be invaluable.   The long handle on this one lets me leverage the pressure so I can clean thoroughly.   Those pipes are the holding station for the chilled water.  A smaller brush makes quick work of cleaning them and the slots that hold the drawers.    Again use soda (and elbow grease) for your food safe scrubbing agent.  Rinse if needed.  Replace drawers and any remaining shelves.   Then sort and put all the food back!  All done!

A Pinch of Joy:  Clean Your Refrgerator in Three Days - Day Two

Hints # 1, 2 and 3

A Pinch of Joy:  Clean Your Refrgerator in Three Days - Day Two

Hint #1.  This refrigerator doesn’t have an egg keeper.  To protect the eggs, I put a wire shelf over them.  Otherwise, the eggs made a flat surface for OTHER people :-) to stack food.  I couldn’t get to the eggs quickly and when I did get them out to use them, there were always broken ones.    The wire shelf makes a good spot to set those little dabs of food that can be added to a hot lunch pack or are “free game” for snacks and off schedule meals.   (Is that hint #2?)

Next Hint:  Those flat plastic baskets — white and yellow — came from the dollar store.  Love them!  We eat lots of yogurt here so they are called the yogurt basket — and there are two because two people eat two different kinds.  When I bring 10 or 15 containers of each kind home from the grocery, I just pull out the correct basket and fill it on the counter from the bag and slide it back into place.   I can see at a glance which one needs replenishing when I am planning my grocery trips.  And if something gets spilled, cleaning the basket is better than cleaning the whole shelf.  Win, win!

Food fresh hints:  That white utility bin holds packaged deli meat.  No one can open another package of meat unless that bin is empty.    A rule from when Bytes and his brother would eat two slices out of a package and open a new package next time.   The first opened packages would get lost and then tossed every time!    And those fresh berries and little tomatoes are stacked there so the cook can see them and not forget to use them.

Find Day One here  and check back for Day Three coming soon!

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