Pillowcase dresses are so quick and easy to make! They are cool and comfortable, perfect for warm weather! You can make them from . . . tah dah. . . an actual pillowcase. Or find cute and colorful fabric and create a dress to match a personality. Pillowcase dresses are so easy a beginner can make one.
You will need approximately one yard of 42″ – 45″ sturdy fabric, and 2.5 yards of 1″ wide grosgrain ribbon for each dress you plan to make. All dresses are made from the full width of the fabric. Only the length will vary. If the child for whom you are making the dress is available, measure from the base of the neck down to the point on the leg where you want the dress to end. Add 5 inches * to that number to allow for casing and hem folds. That is the length you will need. Or you can check the size chart here to determine the length of the fabric you will need.
Disclaimer: I recently made several of these dresses in one sitting so don’t let the different fabrics throw you. I don’t think I remembered to take pictures of all the steps for any one dress! Sorry – -
Prepare the fabric. This cotton fabric had a crooked end. To straighten it, make a cut about into the fabric about 1 inch from the edge. Firmly grasp the fabric in both hands and rip it straight across. The rip will follow the threads and create a straight line. You can use the same method on the other end only make the cut at the point that is the correct length for your dress. Beginner note: The white in the picture above is called a selvage (from “self edge”). The weaving process creates a tight edge on the sides of the fabric that will not fray. (Not all selvages are white.) Match the selvages together so the fabric lies smooth and the right sides are together.
Stitch along the selvage, making a seam about 1/4 inch wide. You will end up with a fabric tube with the right side of the fabric inside. Press the seam to one side. It will be in the center back of the finished dress. You can press it down with your fingers, but an iron makes a sharper crease that will stay.
Place the seam you just sewed on the center crease of the fabric. Beginner note: The center crease is the one that shows from when the fabric was on the bolt. If it doesn’t show, lay the fabric on your table to the stitched end lays flat and is on one side. The fold created on the other side will fall on the center. Mark the fold with a pin or a light pencil mark. Place the seam at that point. Keep the right sides of the fabric together. Fold the fabric in half with the seam to the inside. The armholes are cut on the side with TWO folds. Mark a point two inches in from the two folds on the end of the fabric. Measure 5 inches down and mark on the fold. Connect the two points with a “J” curve as shown in the picture. Cut the armholes.
If you are making more than one dress, take thirty seconds to make a template for the casing and the hem. The measurements for the casing and the hem are the same on every size dress. Having a template will save you tons of time! I used the back of an instant oatmeal box to make mine. On one side, measure down one inch on the two ends. Mark those two points and draw a line connecting them. On the other side, make your line one and a half inches from the edge. I recommend using an iron and doing these next steps on your ironing board or padded surface. Pressing in the creases you need before sewing is another big time saver for all your projects.
With the wrong side of the fabric still on the outside, place it on your work surface. On the end between the armholes, use the one inch template. Place it on the fabric near the edge. Fold the fabric over and adjust the template and fabric until the fabric lies smooth. The edge of the template should be in the fabric fold and the edge of the fabric should be on the one inch line. Press the fold with an iron on medium heat. Set aside the template and make a second fold toward the the center of your garment. This fold is right at the cut edge of the first fold. Press that to make a double fold. This forms the casing for your ribbon.
Repeat this procedure at the bottom of the dress, using the one and a half inch template. This becomes the hem of the dress.
A note about hem widths: I made my finished hems one and a half inches wide. Many instructions only call for a one inch hem. You can make hems as small as one fourth inch wide. (*Note: adjusting the hem will change the amount of fabric required. The five inches added to find the length of fabric above will become 2 inches for the casing folds PLUS double the width of the hem. For example, if you make the hem one half inch wide, you would add three inches to your child’s measurement instead.)
If you are making just one dress, you can skip making the template. Just measure the casing and the hem directly on the fabric, pinning it into place. Pressing the folds before sewing will still give you a crisper, more professional finished look.
Phew!!! That took way longer to explain than it will take you to actually do it!
There are two ways to finish the armholes. Some people prefer to use bias tape. I just put in a quarter inch hem. Beginner note: While the fabric is still on the work surface, fold over 1/4 inch of fabric all the way around the armhole. If fabric does not lie flat, use the point of your scissors to snip from the edge to the fold. This will open the curve and flatten the fabric. Repeat the quarter inch fold to make a double fold. Pin if needed to hold fabric in place. Press and then stitch hem in place.
Stitch hem near open edge. Stitch each casing between the armholes in the same way. Beginner note: At the end of each casing reverse the stitch without cutting the thread. This means you will stitch backward for a few stitches. Release the reverse button and stitch forward again until your needle is off the fabric. The triple stitching that you create this way, makes the end of the stitching stronger. It will be better able to resist tearing out if the ribbon is pulled too hard.
Cut two pieces of ribbon, each 45 inches long. Fasten a safety pin on one end of a ribbon and begin to work it through the casing.
Push and scrunch the pin through the fabric, smoothing out gathers along the ribbon. When pin and ribbon emerge on the other side, pull the ribbon through so that an equal amount is on either side. Pull the second ribbon through the second casing and adjust ribbons if needed. Find the center of each casing (measure or eyeball, either one). Stitch from the edge of the dress to the line of stitching, reverse to the edge of the dress and come forward to the line of stitching again. This creates a strong line of triple stitching to hold the ribbon in place so it does not come out when laundered.
D O N E !!!
Shown are three of the nine dresses I made in the last couple of days for a special donation. Please join me in sewing for a cause.
You can leave your Pillowcase Dress plain as I did or your can add pockets, ties, ruffles and so much more. Check out my Pillowcase Dress Board on Pinterest here for inspiration!
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