Five Things to know about replacing a chandelier

May 16, 2013 by 2 Comments

Replacing a Chandelier A Pinch of Joy

A chandelier is jewelry for your room.  It’s like the statement necklace or exquisite brooch that takes an outfit from good looking to beautiful.  Chandeliers come in a variety of sizes and styles to fit any room or decorating style. Replacing your  outdated light fixtures is an easy way to update a room. New lights add style, make a design focal point and provide illumination for living in that space.  Chandeliers can be used in every room of the house, but they are most often the light fixture of choice for a dining room.  Here are five tips to make choosing, installing and using your new chandelier easier!

1) Choose your style:  Stroll through any home store lighting department and you will find contemporary, traditional and every style in between, a variety of materials and sizes.  Choosing a chandelier is easier if you have some basics in mind before you stroll.  I knew we wanted  simple lines in a silver tone, soft white shades, a little on the large side to make it the focal point of the room.  I wanted a serene feeling to the room to encourage lingering over a meal.   Just those few elements eliminated a host of others and made the selection so much easier.  As soon as we saw this particular fixture, both Wheels and I said “Oh, there it is!”

This is the one that we replaced – a shiny brass one that went to Habitat for Humanity’s ReStore.

Chandelier

2)  Choose where to hang your chandelier.  Lighting for a dining room needs to illuminate the food and activity that center on the dining room table.  At the same time you don’t want it to shine in anyone’s eyes, whether seated or standing.  Hang the chandelier in the middle of the table location.  If the table will set in the middle of the room, as it does in our dining room, then the chandelier will also hang in the center of the ceiling. The size of the chandelier is loosely based on the size of the room and the size of the table.  Larger rooms will visually handle a larger chandelier.  A narrow table calls for a narrow chandelier so diners don’t bump it when they stand.  Our sleek silver light is 24 inches in diameter; the table is 40 inches across.  This means the chandelier leaves 8 inches of  clearance on both sides when the table is centered underneath.  That is pushing the recommended 10 inches of clearance on both sides – but I did want something on the large side to make a visual statement!

  The rule of thumb is to make the bottom of the chandelier hang between 30 and 34 inches above the table top.  Have someone hold the chandelier at the ceiling and shorten or lengthen the chain until you determine the best height for your situation.  Wheels is tall and Bytes is taller but the bottom of our new chandelier is thirty inches from the table.  The curvature of the arms that hold the light is such that the lights set above their line of sight even when standing.

3) Read and follow directions. Switching out old fixtures is pretty straightforward. In most cases, you simply remove the old and  attach the new fixture to the existing wires.  However, read the directions that come with the new chandelier.  They will tell you if additional support is needed to carry the weight of the chandelier.  Follow those recommendations.  If you’ve not done this diy task before, read through and understand the directions for removal of the old and installation of the new.  Straining to read small print with the electricity off, nightfall darkening the room and the baby crying is stressful!   If you don’t have a clear picture of the steps needed to accomplish this task, research it before you start.

4) Plan for safety. TURN OFF THE ELECTRICITY at the circuit box before beginning. Make sure you have the correct light bulbs before beginning (those directions again!) .  Go get the step stool or ladder, instead of standing on the padded dining room chairs (or worse!)  Gather tools you’ll need before starting.  Have a helper standing by to receive the old fixture and to help lift and position the new chandelier.  Leave a service loop when you shorten the electrical wire so you have enough to maneuver the new fixture and tuck everything into place.

5) Plan for versatility in your lighting.  If you don’t already have one, consider installing a dimmer switch.  This allows you to dim the lights and enjoy a romantic dinner for two or brighten them for a rowdy family birthday party for the two year old!  Do not exceed the recommended wattage, but you might want to use a lesser wattage for more even light.  Or clear bulbs vs tinted bulbs.   If there is room to set a lamp or two, or add wall sconces or place flameless candles on furniture pieces, consider the atmosphere options they will offer.   Lighting should make a room, the occupants, home furnishings and prized possessions look their best.

I found the ceiling medallion, new and in the package,  at a garage sale for $2, much less than at the store!  Here is how we created the faux tray ceiling and the chair rail installation is here.   This is much better, don’t you think?  

5 things to know before replacing a chandelier A Pinch of Joy

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How to determine where to place a chair rail

April 25, 2013 by

A Pinch of Joy: How to determine where to place a chair rail

A chair rail adds interest and polish to any room, bringing instant character and definition.   The term may have originated from the Shakers who used rails with pegs to hang chairs so floors could be easily swept.   Many people think they are  intended to protect the wall from backs of chairs that were pushed up against it and they do sometimes serve that function.  However as far back as the Romans, wood pieces have been most frequently used to divide walls  for design and architectural interest.

But how do you know where to place the chair rail on the wall?  Is one place better than another?  I am so glad you asked!!!!  Because there are answers.

Ancient Greeks searched for mathematical formulas to determine the perfect number, perfect chord, and points of  perfect balance in their work.  Renaissance architects and artists build on the Greek search for perfection.  They decided that the relationship of five to eight created this perfect   balance.  This translates very easily when working with an eight foot high wall in the average house.

To determine chair rail placement according to the classic principles, it works this way mathematically:

8×12 (number of inches in a foot) = 96 inches

96 inches ­divided by 5 (the pleasing ratio)  = 19.2 inches

No dining chair is that short so a chair rail installed at that height is pointless

But — two units are 38.5 inches.

Measure that distance up from the floor.

Chair Rail Apinch of JoyThat’s where the chair rail belongs.  You can make 38.5 inches the top or bottom or middle of your chair rail.  You can see that measurement falls just above the high point of the chair rail in our dining room.    As long as you keep the rail  close to that ideal distance, it will be most pleasing to the eye.  In turn, you also create a more pleasant room.

This is called the golden ratio or the divine proportion.  It was used in the construction of the Pyramids, the Parthenon, and Notre Dame Cathedral.   Artists use this principle in their work.  A notable example is DaVinci’s painting of the Last Supper where the table top height horizontally and the amount of space taken up by Christ in the center of the painting vertically both fit into the golden mean.   (That art history class finally paid off!  Hurray!!!!)

If for some reason a chair rail at that height will not work in your space, here’s an alternative that is also used by photographers and artists on the fly because it is easier and faster than figuring the golden ratio.  Many builders also use it as a default measurement for installing chair rails.  It is the rule of thirds.  A space divided into thirds is also pleasing.

An eight foot wall divided into thirds would be:  96 inches high divided by three equals 32 inches.  The top of the chair rail would also be pleasing at 32 inches if you need to go shorter than the golden ratio measurement.  Alternatively, if the style of your house will handle it, a chair rail installed at 64 inches from the floor would also be within the rule of thirds.  A chair rail this high often has a plate rail installed at its top.  Not coincidentally that is the perfect location for artwork on an eight foot wall.

We chose the Golden Ratio in deciding where to place the chair molding in our dining room make over.  You can read about the  faux tray ceiling here and  wallpaper removal here.  Coming next  is how we installed the chair rail and, in part 2, how we installed the picture frame moulding below the chair rail.

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How to Repair a Hole in Drywall

November 8, 2012 by

The office is completed and everything (well, the computer, at least!) is where it now belongs!  This was one of the quickest makeovers we’ve done, especially considering that it was not even on the radar until I spotted a new desk.   It just grew from there with one thing leading to another!  We are really happy with the results and it was definitely worth the upheaval!  I’ll share a few steps we took along the way and by then everything will truly be in place and you can see the happy ending!

Repairing a hole in drywal

First there were some repairs.  This ugly hole was from an old telephone connection about eye level on the wall – never used since we owned the house.  It had been covered by a blank plate but was still an eyesore and was always in the way when trying to place anything on the wall.

Readymade drywall patch

First step was to purchase a standard dry wall patch, although you could make your own if you have some drywall left from a previous project.  Bytes noted that this was the size of a man’s fist.  I didn’t ask how — or why — he was able to make that correlation!  The attached paper is very similar to the material used for dry wall tape.  It is what holds the patch in place and allows the joint compound to form a smooth surface.

Purchased dry wall patch

Besides the dry wall patch, you will need joint compound.  You can purchase this premixed in small quantities, or a larger container if you know you will be doing other projects.  To store joint compound, clean the sides (on the inside) of the container and place a piece of clear plastic wrap directly on the mixture before snapping the lid on tightly.  You will also need a good broadknife.  Our container of joint compound came with a plastic applicator shaped like a broadknife that works if you are doing this only once.  But a good metal broadknife makes the job so much easier and faster with better results.  It is definitely a good investment for a homeowner!

Clean opening to be repaired with utiity knife

Remove   debris from opening with sharp utility knife.  A good utility knife with adjustable blade is another good tool for every homeowner to have in their kit!    For this project, we first removed the box and the exposed wiring that was no longer functioning.  (If you are removing an old electrical outlet, double check to be certain the wires are not carrying electricity before touching them!)

Cut opening to fit draywall patch

A template is provided with the drywall patch.  Center it over the hole and trace the outside edges.  Use your sharp utility knife to cut the opening just inside the traced lines.  Boxes for phone or electrical connections are usually installed next to a wall stud. Placing part of your patch over the stud, when possible, gives the patch more stability.

Use the applicator or your broadknife to add joint compound around the inside edges of the opening.   Note the brown plastic molly insert is now gone.  Use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull them out of the wall before filling hole with joint compound.

Add layer of joint compound and insert drywall patch

Apply a thin layer of joint compound – barely an eighth of an inch – around the perimeter of the opening.  Carefully insert the dry wall patch into the prepared opening.  Press the covering paper gently into the layer of joint compound so that it adheres to the wall.

Apply joint compound to patch

Apply a very thin layer over the entire patch to fill in any indentations.  Broad, firm strokes will give you the most control.  Let dry — the dark patches will disappear and color will be uniform.  Apply a second thin layer over the entire patch.   Feather out the edges beyond the patch.  Feathering out the joint compound  to nothingness is what makes the patch invisible.

Properly installed dry wall patch

If necessary, lightly sand dried surface to remove any irregularities.   Ours did need a third very thin coat of joint compound to make it smooth, but needed very little sanding.   The patch is at Bytes fingertip and below.

finished dry wall patch

All done!  And that homeowner’s lament:  Why didn’t we do this sooner?!!!!

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My Office and chaos

October 30, 2012 by

Forty eight hours ago the only things we owned in the picture above were the scissors and the roll of tape.  Oh!  And the flooring and the black toile curtains.   Nothing else was even on the radar!   One thing just led to another and this is the chaos in my office today.  It’s a good chaos and I’ll share the story soon . . . but in the meantime there is a caulk gun calling my name!

Thoughts and prayers are with those who are dealing with storm chaos today!

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Christmas Gifts for kids – DIY

December 5, 2011 by

Great companion activity to The Very Hungry Caterpillar by Eric Carle!    Create items from felt for each thing the very hungry caterpillar ate,  sew buttons on either end of a ribbon, cut a slit in each of the foods so kids can link all the foods together on the ribbon.   Homemade This and That has a tutorial with easy to follow pictures!

Cute bacon and eggs — can almost smell that bacon!  Made from felt for little ones — and not so little ones too!  Printable patterns are included.  Created by Tonia, you can find it at The Gunny Sack!  For a complete breakfast, Tonia also has a tutorial for pancakes  here.

I know some little boys that are really, really into snakes.  Who knows why kids develop such interests???  They would love getting one of these.  Find a  patterned tie in dad’s closet or the thrift store and make some slithering buddies!  You can find the tutorial at Make and Takes.

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Choosing and installing crown moulding

November 17, 2011 by

crown molding, corner blocks

Adding crown molding to our boxy  room was part of the Great Dining Room Makeover.  Love the extra charm and detail!  It makes the room look surprisingly bigger and  the white against the deep colored wall really pops!!  Best of all, it was easy to do.  The hardest part was making  decisions beforehand.  You, too,  can install crown molding in three easy steps!

1) Choose a moulding and style.  MDF is  lightweight and relatively inexpensive.  It is pre primed, ready to paint and, in general, handles just like wood.  This was the type we chose.  This was our first time doing this and I reasoned that if we messed up it would at least be cheaper than wood. (How’s that for confident decision making?!)  It went so well, that this material would be  first choice again.

Our ceiling is standard 8 foot height and the dining room is not large, so I looked for a  simple design.  We did want it to be noticed, though, so I chose a style that was about 4 inches wide.  Then came the decision about the corners.  One limitation was the choice to use a hand saw and mitre box, rather than buying a power saw with miter capabilities.  My somewhat reluctant and busy helpers might burn out if the job got too complicated or took too long.     So corner blocks it was.   I bought four inside corner blocks and four 12 foot lengths of crown molding,  which just fit through the ski door in my trunk and reached to the far corner of the windshield! Added a box of finish nails, a tube of caulk and we went to work!

2)  Installation begins by painting all moulding pieces your trim color.  Then install corner blocks.  Be prepared to rasp, sandpaper or cut away any excess material from the corner piece so it fits, although caulk and the crown moulding will cover small discrepancies.  Corner blocks come predrilled so you can toenail (nail at an angle to increase holding strength) them easily.   Chances of hitting a stud in the corner (the hold up your wall kind, not the movie star type) are good. Because a stud is solid wood, it will hold the nail and the weight of the moulding.  About 16 inches out, will be another stud. Use a stud finder or tap on the wall to hear the “solid” thud.  When you are certain you have found the stud, mark it; then measure and mark all the way across.

  Measure very carefully  between two corner blocks.  Mark this distance on a piece of crown moulding. Cut long if in doubt.  Using corner blocks means these cuts will be straight.  Position the crown moulding, with one flat side resting against the ceiling, and the other positioned against the wall.   Using your helper to hold one end against a corner block; nail the other end, putting the nail in just far enough to hold the moulding.

Go to the middle stud to fit the moulding snugly into place and, using finish nails, fasten into the wall stud.  Nail about the same place on the top of the moulding into the ceiling.  You might not hit a joist (big stud lying down on the job)  here, but all you need do is keep the moulding in place. Working toward the nail end, continue to fit and fasten about every other stud.  If necessary, you can pull out the nail on the end to reposition or shave the moulding.  Repeat going toward your helper.  By using the 12’ long mouldings, we avoided having to piece any of the runs.  Use a nail set to be sure all nails are in place.

3) Caulk.  I  finally picked up a “nice” caulking gun with a rubber grip and well constructed spring action.  What a difference!!   Only a few dollars more in cost than the cheap ones I had used before and so worth it!  Buy a paintable latex caulk.  Trim the end of the applicator at an angle, using as small an opening as you can. You can always cut it deeper, if needed.  Too big and you will have a caulk bead that “wanders” all over and a big mess.  Fill in any gaps and nailholes.  Take your time and use a wet light cloth (tee shirt)  wrapped around your finger to smooth as you go.

Done in less than half a day!  You’ll have the rest of the day to admire your handiwork!

 

 

 

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Fireplace Draft Stopper Balloon

November 1, 2011 by

Preparing for winter.  Just the thought of winterization sends shivers up my spine!  But that has been on the agenda at Chez Charlene spurred on by predictions of a “brutal” winter for this area.     Where we live, there seems to be more misses than hits with weather forecasts.   Something about jet streams that change their mind – crossing fingers that’s true again.

Our fireplace damper is tightly closed, but there was always  a draft.  We caulked, inside and out,  and still a draft.  If drafts  come in, then heated and cooled air can  go out.   So at the end of last winter we did a little research and decided to invest in a fireplace draft stopper balloon.   It is just what it sounds like — a heavy duty inflatable bag that fits across the chimney out of sight above the firebox.   We don’t use the fireplace often — like every fifth year –  but the balloon is removable so we can light a fire and then put it back in place.  There are different sizes, so Wheels wriggled into the fireplace to measure and determine which we needed.   For about $60 we placed an Amazon order.

It arrived in a flat box and was installed in less than an hour.  Snapshots are from a small digital and lose something in the translation to posting, but you can see how simple the process is.  It went like this:

Step 1 –This is the entire assembly laid out flat.  You can see the balloon itself is tapered on the sides to better fit the contours of our chimney.   The balloon comes in different shapes so pick the one that fits your needs. You can figure out the shape when you measure the opening.  The balloon is made of a thick , heavy plastic.  The clear tube is for inflating the balloon (or small air bag).   It was already attached and remains attached during use.    The black t-bar is attached to the bag by velcro loops and is used for pushing the balloon up into the chimney.

2.  Inflate the balloon.  You provide the air power for this step.  We could have  used an air pump on this if we’d had an adapter, but it wasn’t difficult to inflate by blowing into the tube.   Just took a bit more time.    Bytes said he felt like a bag piper.   The channels prevent the balloon from folding in on itself and make it easier to handle for the next step.

3.  Position the balloon, aligning the tapered area of the balloon with the fireplace. (If you have a straight chimney or a round stack this step isn’t necessary.   )  Our fireplace hasn’t been used since the chimney sweep was here so there was no build up of soot to worry about.  A visual inspection showed no sharp edges or protrusions to work around.   Use the T handle to push the balloon into place.   This one fits up against the closed damper.

4. Push the balloon into place, adjusting any reluctant stray parts.  There is a slot in the middle of the balloon with reinforced edges that allow you to push it above the damper handle.  Do that now. Tuck the inflator tube away and out of sight.  When you are satisfied the balloon is in place, unfasten the velcro and remove the T-handle.  You can leave it in  to help hold the balloon in place, but it fits tightly enough that should not be necessary.  Yes, that’s wood in the firebox — just in case the electricity goes out rendering our gas furnace inoperable and we need heat.  But mostly because it looks better than an empty firebox.  The wood is well aged by now  — close to petrified even.

5. Finished.    You can see the inflator tube with is red tip is tucked up between the fireplace wall and the balloon.  The whitish alien head looking thing in the middle is really the damper handle that has been pulled through the slot.  The two gray rectangles are the velcro strips for the T-handle.

Does it work?  The real test will be this winter.  We will be happy if it increases the comfort level in the living room.  A reduction in the heating bill would be a bonus!  They are also advertised to reduce noise, stop downdraft smells from other fireplaces nearby, prevent bugs and birds from coming into the fireplace.  These were not problems for us, so no report on those.  But I’ll let you know how this works out for comfort and energy savings!

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