Five Things to know about replacing a chandelier

Replacing a Chandelier A Pinch of Joy

A chandelier is jewelry for your room.  It’s like the statement necklace or exquisite brooch that takes an outfit from good looking to beautiful.  Chandeliers come in a variety of sizes and styles to fit any room or decorating style. Replacing your  outdated light fixtures is an easy way to update a room. New lights add style, make a design focal point and provide illumination for living in that space.  Chandeliers can be used in every room of the house, but they are most often the light fixture of choice for a dining room.  Here are five tips to make choosing, installing and using your new chandelier easier!

1) Choose your style:  Stroll through any home store lighting department and you will find contemporary, traditional and every style in between, a variety of materials and sizes.  Choosing a chandelier is easier if you have some basics in mind before you stroll.  I knew we wanted  simple lines in a silver tone, soft white shades, a little on the large side to make it the focal point of the room.  I wanted a serene feeling to the room to encourage lingering over a meal.   Just those few elements eliminated a host of others and made the selection so much easier.  As soon as we saw this particular fixture, both Wheels and I said “Oh, there it is!”

This is the one that we replaced – a shiny brass one that went to Habitat for Humanity’s ReStore.

Chandelier

2)  Choose where to hang your chandelier.  Lighting for a dining room needs to illuminate the food and activity that center on the dining room table.  At the same time you don’t want it to shine in anyone’s eyes, whether seated or standing.  Hang the chandelier in the middle of the table location.  If the table will set in the middle of the room, as it does in our dining room, then the chandelier will also hang in the center of the ceiling. The size of the chandelier is loosely based on the size of the room and the size of the table.  Larger rooms will visually handle a larger chandelier.  A narrow table calls for a narrow chandelier so diners don’t bump it when they stand.  Our sleek silver light is 24 inches in diameter; the table is 40 inches across.  This means the chandelier leaves 8 inches of  clearance on both sides when the table is centered underneath.  That is pushing the recommended 10 inches of clearance on both sides – but I did want something on the large side to make a visual statement!

  The rule of thumb is to make the bottom of the chandelier hang between 30 and 34 inches above the table top.  Have someone hold the chandelier at the ceiling and shorten or lengthen the chain until you determine the best height for your situation.  Wheels is tall and Bytes is taller but the bottom of our new chandelier is thirty inches from the table.  The curvature of the arms that hold the light is such that the lights set above their line of sight even when standing.

3) Read and follow directions. Switching out old fixtures is pretty straightforward. In most cases, you simply remove the old and  attach the new fixture to the existing wires.  However, read the directions that come with the new chandelier.  They will tell you if additional support is needed to carry the weight of the chandelier.  Follow those recommendations.  If you’ve not done this diy task before, read through and understand the directions for removal of the old and installation of the new.  Straining to read small print with the electricity off, nightfall darkening the room and the baby crying is stressful!   If you don’t have a clear picture of the steps needed to accomplish this task, research it before you start.

4) Plan for safety. TURN OFF THE ELECTRICITY at the circuit box before beginning. Make sure you have the correct light bulbs before beginning (those directions again!) .  Go get the step stool or ladder, instead of standing on the padded dining room chairs (or worse!)  Gather tools you’ll need before starting.  Have a helper standing by to receive the old fixture and to help lift and position the new chandelier.  Leave a service loop when you shorten the electrical wire so you have enough to maneuver the new fixture and tuck everything into place.

5) Plan for versatility in your lighting.  If you don’t already have one, consider installing a dimmer switch.  This allows you to dim the lights and enjoy a romantic dinner for two or brighten them for a rowdy family birthday party for the two year old!  Do not exceed the recommended wattage, but you might want to use a lesser wattage for more even light.  Or clear bulbs vs tinted bulbs.   If there is room to set a lamp or two, or add wall sconces or place flameless candles on furniture pieces, consider the atmosphere options they will offer.   Lighting should make a room, the occupants, home furnishings and prized possessions look their best.

I found the ceiling medallion, new and in the package,  at a garage sale for $2, much less than at the store!  Here is how we created the faux tray ceiling and the chair rail installation is here.   This is much better, don’t you think?  

5 things to know before replacing a chandelier A Pinch of Joy

Follow A Pinch of Joy so you don’t miss a thing!  Subscribe by email or RSS, follow on facebook or twitter!    If you found this helpful, please share on your favorite network by clicking one of the buttons on the bottom of this post.

 

 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Related posts:

How to make old art new again

How to change mat colors -  quick, easy and no cost  A Pinch of Joy

How to make old art new again.  And make it coordinate with new room colors.  And do it quickly,  easily and at almost no cost.   That was the challenge in our dining room makeover. 

I found this picture at a garage sale a few years ago.  Someone was selling off the almost new contents of their office,  including artwork.  This reminded me of a spot in one of our favorite hiking areas, a place called Highbanks,  in the spring time.  When I got it home, the title of the piece is “Spring”.  It’s pretty good sized – 48 inches by 38 inches –  and very heavy.  For a while it hung in the living room.   However, a perfect spot opened up when we did the dining room.  Except  the mat colors made it look way too heavy for the light, airy and meditative vibe I was going for.   Plus I didn’t think they really conveyed “Spring”.   

 

Wall Art.Old

So I unceremoniously turned the picture upside down on the dining room table and began to disassemble it.  I had pictures of the process but when we changed computers last fall, a whole bunch of photos came up missing.  (Yes, the mat colors above were edited in.)  So you’ll have to imagine the process.  It was very simple actually.

I experimented with the color swatches for several days, trying different combinations to pick up different portions of the picture.  I really liked the one that picked up the orangey color, but again the over all effect was not the serene feeling I wanted.  Finally I decided to go with the wall color and the color of the adjacent hallway.  They didn’t jar or call attention to themselves and blended with both the wall color (since it IS the wall color)  and the colors in the picture. 

 I carefully removed the dust cover so I would be able to reuse it.  Some are stapled on, the better ones are glued and a little tricky to get off in one piece.  A sharp thin knife helps.    Then I slipped out the mats, being very careful not to let them bend and become nicked or creased.  I placed them on a tarp on the garage floor, which was the only work place big enough to hold them both flat.

Then . . . .the secret to new mats that are quick, easy and  no cost.  Drum roll please. 

 The very same paint that was used to paint the walls.  Yes, just latex paint.  I used a small roller just wide enough to cover the entire mat and quickly did a light coat of their respective colors to seal and prime the mat itself.  When that dried in about 30 minutes.  I came back with another coat.  Thirty minutes later a third light coat.  I let them dry over night to be sure they were thoroughly dry and would not stick to one another or to the glass.

I carefully cleaned the inside of the glass (and missed one fingerprint at the bottom that no one else can see but that screams at me!).  Then I reassembled the entire thing, following exactly the same steps as in disassembling except in reverse.   The hardest part was getting the dust cover on straight and in one piece, but even that was fairly easy. 

There were so many options for color choice, but I like this one because it flows with the  strong wall color and does not compete with the wall or the picture.  That lets the print speak for itself.    It does that and quite clearly too.  When my friend saw it, she exclaimed “Oh, that’s the spot in Highbanks where my husband I go hiking.” 

 I don’t know if the artist even knew Highbanks existed when he painted it.  But it was great to know that the print elicited the same thoughts of hiking on a beautiful spring day in at least two people. 

  I like art that speaks to people! 

I am so glad you stopped by!  Follow A Pinch of Joy so you don’t miss a thing!  Subscribe by email or RSS, follow on facebook or twitter!    If you found this helpful, please share on your favorite network by clicking one of the buttons on the bottom of this post.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 

Linking up to these awesome parties here [Read more...]

Related posts:

How to Install a Chair Rail

How to Install Chair Rail

You can purchase 12, 10 or 8 foot lengths of moulding and trim. Before buying, measure the room and take note of windows and doors.  Determine the longest unbroken run and that will determine the length of the stock moulding.  For example,  if the measurement is over 10 foot, buy 12 foot long stock.  This will allow you to make as few splices as possible and save you time and work.  With a little thought, you can figure out how to make those three dimensions work in your room to make as few cuts as possible.  Just be sure the pattern is exactly the same in all lengths.  Remember when figuring length of stock that straight ends will butt up against door and window frames but that corners will require an extra inch at least in order to make the diagonal cuts necessary for fit.  (And don’t worry if you come out with a bit of extra footage — that’s your insurance policy against mistakes!)

All the woodwork in our home has been painted white, so when we purchase new trim or molding I go for the preprimed stock.  I also give it at least one coat of the finish paint before doing anything else with it.  It’s much easier to paint when it is laying flat and no worries about getting paint on a wall.

Once you’ve  determined the height of your chair rail, and are ready to install, grab your tape measure and level to make a level line along the whole length of the room.  Floors are not always level, so measuring up from the floor could give you a wavy line. It might be parallel to the floor but make you seasick to look at it!  

chalk line

A quick way to make a line is to measure up from the floor at two points and have a helper hold one end of a chalk line while you draw the line taut, hold it securely in place and snap the line.  Check the level of the line it’s full length with a carpenter’s level.   Adjust as needed to make sure the finished line is level all the way round the room. A good laser level (the kind that comes with it’s own tripod) can be helpful, especially if you working solo.  In that case, get the beam set across the entire wall and check the measurements from the floor at several places to make sure the rail will be installed where you expect it to be.

In new construction, workers will often cut all the moulding before installation.  Our experience in older homes is whatever the project,  it is better to cut as you go. That way it’s easy to make minor adjustments and to custom cut each piece so it fits perfectly – or at least as close to perfect as it can get.  One wall in our dining room has a very noticeable bow.  You can actually measure where it dips in a full ¾ of an inch!  . 

Chair Rail6

The cutting and installation was Bytes’ contribution.  I’m on the other end of the tape measure, holding long boards when they are being sawed and acting as general picker upper and gofer.   (Wheels’ long work hours keeps him in an advisory position :-) )    The dining room was our first trim project in this house.  We weren’t sure how it would work out or if we would want to do another one again.  Minimal investment was to find the hand miter saw in the garage so Bytes did all the work in  by hand.  It was a little more time consuming but not hard to do.

Begin installing at an inside corner .  Measure from the corner to the next natural stopping place.  That may be a door, a window or the next corner.  Doors or windows generally call for a straight cut on your moulding.   Inside corner cuts are done at a 45 degree angle with the part of the moulding that goes against the wall the longest part of the angle.  We call those “innies” because the cut goes in towards the wall with the longest part next to the wall.   Both pieces of moulding are cut the same at the corner.  They will butt up against each other and make a square corner.

 An outside corner is cut with the longest part of the moulding on the outside and the short cut right on the corner of the wall.  Those are “outies”  If it is necessary to splice two pieces of moulding, make 30 degree cuts.  One piece will be an innie and on the second piece the cut will be an outie.  It doesn’t matter which is which as long as you are consistent in the way you cut the splices thoughout the room.

Chair Rail4

To install, put the bottom (or top if that’s the way you measured — no right or wrong way)  of the molding on the level line that you drew.  Check to make sure the moulding is level before beginning nailing.  Use a 2 /12 inch finishing nail at the high parts of the molding to prevent splitting. If the chair molding is narrow, one nail every 12-18 inches, depending on the placement of the wall studs, will suffice.  Wider molding may need a nail at the top and another at the bottom directly below the first.   We did it the classic way with a hand held hammer!

Use glue ONLY when joining one piece of trim to another, if then.  We didn’t.  It is not be necessary to glue the trim to the wall because the nails will hold it securely.    In fact, if you (or the next owner) want to remove the trim at some point, glue will turn that job into a very expensive and time consuming mess. Removing something glued to wall board generally destroys the top layer at a minimum, requiring patching, and can ruin the board to the point that it must be replaced entirely.  

Use a nail set to recess the nail heads just below the surface of the wood. 

This is where I begin to prepare the trim for painting.  Fill the nail holes with paintable caulk or joint compound. Apply a bead of paintable caulk to the edge of the molding where it meets the wall, and fill in any other holes or gaps if needed.   Paintable caulk is what we used in the dining room.   Test its paintability in a corner before doing the whole room if you haven’t used that particular brand or kind before, because results can vary.  You can also use joint compound to fill in openings and cracks. Use either one sparingly.   A wet rag or sponge to wipe up excess with both is very helpful. 

Sand smooth when dry.  I picked up a set of small scale power tools at a garage sale a couple of years ago.  The contractor selling them considered them a joke gift he couldn’t wait to get out of his sight.  Well, I  looove them!!!    They are all lightweight, which is a big consideration for me.   The detail sander with its 3 inch triangular head is just the perfect size to make sure the places that were filled are smooth and as invisible as possible.

To finish the project, apply your choice of paint to the chair rail to give it a clean, finished look.

Follow A Pinch of Joy so you don’t miss a thing!  Subscribe by email or RSS, follow on facebook or twitter!    If you found this helpful, please share on your favorite network by clicking one of the buttons on the bottom of this post

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Linking up to these awesome parties here and Sundae Scoop, Nifty Thrifty Sunday, Sunday Showcase,     Dinner Time Recipes, On The Menu Monday,    Mix It Up Monday,.Manic Monday, ., Masterpiece Monday , Market Yourself Monday,. Made By You Monday , Motivate Me MondayMarvelous Mondays,  Time to Sparkle More The MerrierIn and Out of the Kitchen,  Inspire Me Monday,. . Tasteful Tuesdays,    Tutorials and Tips , Tasty Tuesday , Titus 2 Tuesday, Tuesdays Treasures , The ScoopGathering Spot, Melt In Your Mouth Monday, Totally Tasty Tuesday , Tuesday Talent Show, Tried and True, Back for Seconds SocialWow Me Wednesday. . . Cast Party WednesdayWow Me Wednesday, The Creative Spark, Whatever Goes, Show and Share, We Did It!, , 36th Avenue, Tutorials tips and tidbitsWonderful Wednesdays . .  . Centerpiece Wednesday, Full Plate Thursday , Show Off Your Stuff, Hookin’ Up, , Share Your Creation, Chic and Crafty, Showcase Your Talent, Catch a Glimpse , Crafty Blog Stalker , Pin Inspiration Thursday, Grace at Home,  Kitchen Fun, Tasty Thursday    Thrifty Thursday. . . Flaunt It Friday,  What’s Shakin   .Foodie Friends Friday, ,  Inspiration Friday ,  Delicately Constructed , Simply Link Party, Foodie Friday, Weekend Wrap Up , Whatcha Got Weekend , The Grant Life , Shine on Fridays, Create and Inspire, Anything Goes. Simple and Sweet Fridays,   Show and Tell Friday,Be Inspired Friday,       Pinworthy Projects,   Thrifty Things Friday . . What’s Shakin .  Totally Overflowing,   Strut Your Stuff Saturday , Serenity Saturday, Check Me Out, Saturday Night Special, Saturday Seven, Show and Tell Saturday, Saturday Dishes,    A Bouquet of Talent,

Related posts:

How to determine where to place a chair rail

A Pinch of Joy: How to determine where to place a chair rail

A chair rail adds interest and polish to any room, bringing instant character and definition.   The term may have originated from the Shakers who used rails with pegs to hang chairs so floors could be easily swept.   Many people think they are  intended to protect the wall from backs of chairs that were pushed up against it and they do sometimes serve that function.  However as far back as the Romans, wood pieces have been most frequently used to divide walls  for design and architectural interest.

But how do you know where to place the chair rail on the wall?  Is one place better than another?  I am so glad you asked!!!!  Because there are answers.

Ancient Greeks searched for mathematical formulas to determine the perfect number, perfect chord, and points of  perfect balance in their work.  Renaissance architects and artists build on the Greek search for perfection.  They decided that the relationship of five to eight created this perfect   balance.  This translates very easily when working with an eight foot high wall in the average house.

To determine chair rail placement according to the classic principles, it works this way mathematically:

8×12 (number of inches in a foot) = 96 inches

96 inches ­divided by 5 (the pleasing ratio)  = 19.2 inches

No dining chair is that short so a chair rail installed at that height is pointless

But — two units are 38.5 inches.

Measure that distance up from the floor.

Chair Rail Apinch of JoyThat’s where the chair rail belongs.  You can make 38.5 inches the top or bottom or middle of your chair rail.  You can see that measurement falls just above the high point of the chair rail in our dining room.    As long as you keep the rail  close to that ideal distance, it will be most pleasing to the eye.  In turn, you also create a more pleasant room.

This is called the golden ratio or the divine proportion.  It was used in the construction of the Pyramids, the Parthenon, and Notre Dame Cathedral.   Artists use this principle in their work.  A notable example is DaVinci’s painting of the Last Supper where the table top height horizontally and the amount of space taken up by Christ in the center of the painting vertically both fit into the golden mean.   (That art history class finally paid off!  Hurray!!!!)

If for some reason a chair rail at that height will not work in your space, here’s an alternative that is also used by photographers and artists on the fly because it is easier and faster than figuring the golden ratio.  Many builders also use it as a default measurement for installing chair rails.  It is the rule of thirds.  A space divided into thirds is also pleasing.

An eight foot wall divided into thirds would be:  96 inches high divided by three equals 32 inches.  The top of the chair rail would also be pleasing at 32 inches if you need to go shorter than the golden ratio measurement.  Alternatively, if the style of your house will handle it, a chair rail installed at 64 inches from the floor would also be within the rule of thirds.  A chair rail this high often has a plate rail installed at its top.  Not coincidentally that is the perfect location for artwork on an eight foot wall.

We chose the Golden Ratio in deciding where to place the chair molding in our dining room make over.  You can read about the  faux tray ceiling here and  wallpaper removal here.  Coming next  is how we installed the chair rail and, in part 2, how we installed the picture frame moulding below the chair rail.

If you found this helpful, please share on your favorite network by clicking one of the buttons on the bottom of this post.    Follow A Pinch of Joy so you don’t miss a thing!  Click the buttons on the header to subscribe or follow so you can catch the latest post!

Linking up to these awesome parties here [Read more...]

Related posts:

8 things to know about how to remove wall paper

8 things to know about How to Remove Wall paper from A Pinch of Joy

The first house we owned was a three story Victorian.  The second and current house is a two story Seventies Special.  What do they have in common?  Wallpaper.  Although wallpaper is a trend that comes and goes, it is still a classic solution for rough walls or providing an accent.  What goes up, must eventually come down.   Here’s what I’ve learned about how to remove wall paper:

1) The Victorian had plastered walls.  First narrow wood strips called lathe was nailed to the stud, a rough coat of plaster was then applied.  When it dried, a finish coat of plaster was laid over the top and polished smooth by a skilled craftsman.  Properly applied and maintained, it produced a durable surface.   To remove wallpaper we found hot water and a clean garden sprayer were most effective.   Working in four foot squares, Wheels would saturate a section, going over it until it was wet and almost dripping.  Then he would move to the next  section and begin to saturate it. 

After about five minutes I would begin to test the first section, using a putty knife to see if I could separate the paper from the plaster wall.  Let it set too long and you could damage the plaster so focus and repeated testing was key. When wallpaper paste softened sufficiently, paper would peel easily away without damaging the plaster.     Often the paper would come off in big chunks and all that was necessary was to wash the glue off the plaster and wipe it dry.   We could do a wall in an evening and were confident in our ability.    

Then we moved and our experience grew in depth and breadth. 

2) We prepared for the project the same way.  Remove furniture from the work area.  Shove it to the other side of the room, in other words.  And put down drop cloths. Remove electrical faceplates.  We acquired a little gadget that looks like a mouse only it with spiky gears on the bottom instead of the roller ball.  The spikes of the scorer pierce the wallpaper so  liquid can penetrate and soften the adhesive.  These are all good things.   

3) Successful wallpaper removal depends on something over which you may have no control, especially if you are not the first owner.   Primed wallboard.   If you find yourself trying to remove paper from unprimed wallboard –it can be done (see #4) but you have my sincerest sympathy!  Best is preventive. Never, ever, ever put wallpaper on wallboard that has not been primed and/or painted.   

4) Strippable paper only means that the top layer can be pulled off.  You will still be left with a layer stuck to your wall.  It was a snow day and nothing was moving when we decided to work on the powder room.  The wallpaper also was not moving, so we filled all the pans we could find with boiling water and put them in the closed room.   Bytes dived in with a putty knife when visibility had been reduced to zero by steam and began scraping.  It worked. 

5) Not all adhesives are created equal.  Our next project was the kitchen soffit –  20 feet in length 12 inches wide.  That paper came off inch by painful inch over many long days.   It was probably made by Wall Armor.  We tried every trick we knew or ever heard about then Bytes googled for more.   But lessons learned:

6)  There are many options for a solution that will soften adhesive.  Fabric softener is one.  Mix equal parts of fabric softener and very hot water in a spray bottle.  Vinegar and very hot water in equal measurements mix in a spray bottle is a second option.  For these solutions, spray about a four foot square and let it set for five minutes before scraping it off.  These may or may not work on a particular adhesive, but you won’t know until you try.  Another option is a commercially prepared adhesive softener. There are several different brands. Follow the directions on the label.  These, also, may or may not work.   

7) Listen to the crew.  That below the chair rail paper in the dining room was also made by Wall Armor.  And stuck down with NASA rocket glue.  Bytes and Wheels were not swayed by my “I don’t want to spend money on equipment that will just set in the garage forever between uses” argument.  One hour and two feet of semi-cleaned wall and they were off to the home improvement store.  And they came home with a wallpaper steamer.

 Wallpaper Steamer

8)  The right equipment makes the job so much easier!  This little $50 wonder made the dining room project so much easier.  We turned around and used it again a few months later in the office makeover.  It uses all the most successful factors from all the other methods we’ve used –strip the top layer of paper off, score the remaining layer, apply steam in a controlled area to quickly soften the adhesive without damaging the wall underneath.  If you do run into a tough patch, the adhesive softeners  give  the boost needed to get the paper off.  The wallpaper steamer has saved so many hours, so much frustration and effort! 

Wallpaper Steamer in actionAdd water to the steam unit.  Steam moves up the hose to the applicator (on the left).  Place the applicator over the wallpaper to be removed and hold it in place until the adhesive loosens.  Scrape off the paper and adhesive (on the right).  Repeat until done.  Wash wall with sponge and warm water.  Ready for a new look! 

I am so glad you stopped by!    If you found this helpful, please share on your favorite network by clicking one of the buttons on the bottom of this post.

Follow A Pinch of Joy so you don’t miss a thing!  Click the buttons on the header to subscribe or follow so you can catch the latest post!

Linking up to these awesome parties here [Read more...]

Related posts:

How to Make a Christmas Garland in Six Easy Steps

Garlands are so versatile for Christmas decorating!  They can lay across a flat surface, like a mantel, hang from a railing, swoop around door frames, window or mirrors — and more.   The best part is:   Garlands don’t have to be disassembled for storage.  Next year, open the storage container and there is a glorious ready made decoration just waiting to bring you cheer!

Step 1 — Choose the foundation

Choose size and type of garland you want. This one is eight foot long, quite full and is frosted. If your garland is not prelit, and you want lights, work the string of lights into the branches. Make sure the plug in will end up on the correct end for where you plan to use the garland! Put most of the lights in toward the center of the garland and just a few on the tips.

Step 2 — Create a Framework

Select three colors and three design elements.

  • The largest sized design element will be the dominant element so what ever color you choose for it will also be the dominant color. When you are finished adding items of that size and color, they should be visible in 60 per cent of the garland. In our example, the dominant element is poinsettias and the dominant color is white. I counted the white from the frosted greenery as part of the 60% because it shows up more in real life than in the photos.
  • The second choice will be the – surprise — secondary color and element. Round Christmas balls are an easy element choice. They “go with” any theme and come in an array of colors and sizes. The individual pieces of this element are smaller than the dominant pieces – the mama bear of our triad. Visually this choice will make up about 25 – 30 percent of the finished project.
  •  And the third color will be the accent – the one that makes the others pop! It will be about 15-20 percent of the color visible in the finished garland – not counting the background green. The element pieces will be the smallest in size of the three types of elements.

Step 3 – Preparation

 Gather all your materials in one spot. (I like to work standing up at a counter.) Snip all stems, remove hangers from glass bulbs, get rid of price tags. You can do these thingsas you go along, but it is faster to do them assembly line style.

Step 4 – Measure

Divide garland into fifths. (You may want to do this on the floor so you have plenty of room.)  For an eight foot garland, one fifth is 19 inches. Place one of your dominant elements at each of these points.

Step 5 – Create

Here is where your creativity can take over!   Working with just one segment, begin to lay out, the different elements. Place them all over the width of the garland – not just in a straight line down the middle. Work first with the dominant color.   Repeat the dominant element in the segment as you like, in uneven numbers counting the “marker” placed in step 4 on your left. Because this color forms 60% of the finished product, you can add a smaller second element in your dominant color to create interest.

The key is to keep them all the same color and tone.  The example uses white snowflake as a lacy contrast to the solid looking poinsettia. Or use different sizes of the element – add small poinsettias in between the larger ones, for example. Place the dominant elements so they relate to one another visually– your eye moves easily from one to the other. From there, you decide when enough is enough!

Drop in the secondary element and color, so that it is about half of the visual“amount” in the segment as the dominant color. Again you can vary things as sizes, finishes (matte or shiny), clusters instead of singles. In general, use only one variation in order to avoid a cluttered look – especially if you used variations in the dominant color. The accent color can also vary, but less so than the other two colors. If you repeat one accent at regular intervals, adding a random variation is more pleasing to the eye. If you want your accent to fall only at random, it’s better to stick to just one element with no variation.

Step 6 – Assemble

When you have achieved a look that you like in one segment, use a hot glue gun to fasten each element to the garland. Be sure to use a low temp glue gun. High temp means just that – up to 400 degrees!  I learned “first hand”  (pun intended) how it can temporarily remove a fingerprint!   Low temp is uncomfortable on the skin, but can be peeled off without burning and,  in sufficient quantity, provides all the holding power necessary.  Keep fluffing the garland as you go along, so it doesn’t become flattened and one dimensional as you add the design elements.

Loosely repeat the pattern you developed in each of the four remaining segments. You don’t have to measure – just eyeball. This gives a feeling of movement and freedom in the finished garland. Then add one or two totally different elements in pleasing color, shape and proportion to the garland — just to break all the rules! You can alter the basic look from time to time by tucking in ribbon, strings of beads, feathers, mesh, or other things. Just keep in mind the 60 % proportion for the dominant color. For example, use wide red ribbon to loop around, through and below the garland, so red becomes the dominant color and white becomes the secondary color.

Finished – at night

Banister garland relfected in mirror

Don’t miss a thing — subscribe by email or RSS feed, follow on facebook or twitter to catch the latest post!  

Share with others by  giving this post a Stumble, Tweet, Pin, or Facebook Like.  Your support of A Pinch of Joy is  appreciated!

 

 

 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



Related posts:

How to Repair a Hole in Drywall

The office is completed and everything (well, the computer, at least!) is where it now belongs!  This was one of the quickest makeovers we’ve done, especially considering that it was not even on the radar until I spotted a new desk.   It just grew from there with one thing leading to another!  We are really happy with the results and it was definitely worth the upheaval!  I’ll share a few steps we took along the way and by then everything will truly be in place and you can see the happy ending!

Repairing a hole in drywal

First there were some repairs.  This ugly hole was from an old telephone connection about eye level on the wall – never used since we owned the house.  It had been covered by a blank plate but was still an eyesore and was always in the way when trying to place anything on the wall.

Readymade drywall patch

First step was to purchase a standard dry wall patch, although you could make your own if you have some drywall left from a previous project.  Bytes noted that this was the size of a man’s fist.  I didn’t ask how — or why — he was able to make that correlation!  The attached paper is very similar to the material used for dry wall tape.  It is what holds the patch in place and allows the joint compound to form a smooth surface.

Purchased dry wall patch

Besides the dry wall patch, you will need joint compound.  You can purchase this premixed in small quantities, or a larger container if you know you will be doing other projects.  To store joint compound, clean the sides (on the inside) of the container and place a piece of clear plastic wrap directly on the mixture before snapping the lid on tightly.  You will also need a good broadknife.  Our container of joint compound came with a plastic applicator shaped like a broadknife that works if you are doing this only once.  But a good metal broadknife makes the job so much easier and faster with better results.  It is definitely a good investment for a homeowner!

Clean opening to be repaired with utiity knife

Remove   debris from opening with sharp utility knife.  A good utility knife with adjustable blade is another good tool for every homeowner to have in their kit!    For this project, we first removed the box and the exposed wiring that was no longer functioning.  (If you are removing an old electrical outlet, double check to be certain the wires are not carrying electricity before touching them!)

Cut opening to fit draywall patch

A template is provided with the drywall patch.  Center it over the hole and trace the outside edges.  Use your sharp utility knife to cut the opening just inside the traced lines.  Boxes for phone or electrical connections are usually installed next to a wall stud. Placing part of your patch over the stud, when possible, gives the patch more stability.

Use the applicator or your broadknife to add joint compound around the inside edges of the opening.   Note the brown plastic molly insert is now gone.  Use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull them out of the wall before filling hole with joint compound.

Add layer of joint compound and insert drywall patch

Apply a thin layer of joint compound – barely an eighth of an inch – around the perimeter of the opening.  Carefully insert the dry wall patch into the prepared opening.  Press the covering paper gently into the layer of joint compound so that it adheres to the wall.

Apply joint compound to patch

Apply a very thin layer over the entire patch to fill in any indentations.  Broad, firm strokes will give you the most control.  Let dry — the dark patches will disappear and color will be uniform.  Apply a second thin layer over the entire patch.   Feather out the edges beyond the patch.  Feathering out the joint compound  to nothingness is what makes the patch invisible.

Properly installed dry wall patch

If necessary, lightly sand dried surface to remove any irregularities.   Ours did need a third very thin coat of joint compound to make it smooth, but needed very little sanding.   The patch is at Bytes fingertip and below.

finished dry wall patch

All done!  And that homeowner’s lament:  Why didn’t we do this sooner?!!!!

Don’t miss a thing — subscribe by email or RSS feed, follow on facebook or twitter to catch the latest post!

If you found this post interesting or helpful, please share with others by  giving it a Stumble, Tweet, Pin, or Facebook Like.  Your support of A Pinch of Joy is greatly appreciated!

 

 

 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Linking up to these awesome parties here and   [Read more...]

Related posts:

My Office and chaos

Forty eight hours ago the only things we owned in the picture above were the scissors and the roll of tape.  Oh!  And the flooring and the black toile curtains.   Nothing else was even on the radar!   One thing just led to another and this is the chaos in my office today.  It’s a good chaos and I’ll share the story soon . . . but in the meantime there is a caulk gun calling my name!

Thoughts and prayers are with those who are dealing with storm chaos today!

Don’t miss a thing — subscribe by email or RSS feed, follow on facebook or twitter to catch the latest post!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Related posts:

Organizing Lazy Susan

This lazy susan is the primary location for my baking supplies  but it also collects all sorts of other odds and ends.    It is always messy — partly from my habit of flipping it open and shoving just one more thing in, like that bag of brown sugar laying on top of the popcorn container.   It seemed like there was never enough room and I could never find anything quickly.

That changed with a Kohl’s sale and a 30% off coupon.  I saw a set of these  see through canisters with pop top seals  and the little light bulb above my head flashed on!!

Maybe it wasn’t just my bad habits that made this cupboard difficult.  Maybe it was the way things were stored!

I let the box of canisters stay on the shelf while I completed my rounds and then circled back.  Hmmm — certainly a lot more money that a dollar store container.  But I liked that they sealed.  And that they stacked.  And that they were square. And that I had a gift card in my pocket.  I toured the table linens and then the bedding section — then I snatched up that box and headed for the checkout.

When I got home, I washed the canisters and pulled everything out of the lazy susan — it looked even more messy  in real life!  I cleaned the shelves and cut a new liner.   Liners save tons of time scrubbing and cleaning, I think.  I’ve used all sorts of things to line these shelves — gift wrap, kraft paper, newsprint, wallpaper.   This time I used two sheets of dollar store poster board and used the old yucky liner as a pattern.  All clean and ready to go.

If you look below you’ll see my problem. . . .

. . . . too many different and odd sized containers.

I began shifting supplies to the new  containers.  Those are tea bags in the spaghetti jar — see how much less shelf room it requires than the container on the left!   The salt container takes up a bit more room than the jar, but I can keep a half teaspoon measure in it AND stack other small containers on top — something I could not do with the jar.   The square container with flour takes up less space than the old rectangular one and the brown sugar is much more compact than the big round tub.  Moral of the story . . .  look for containers that are square, can be stacked, have an easy to use airtight lid and range from tall to small.  A “set” is a bonus, but knowing those few tips will help you choose even from random sources and have more functional and efficient storage.  Like this . . .

 And yes, that’s  four cans of cooking spray on the top shelf.  Who needs four cans??  Someone who has such a disorganized cupboard they don’t know what’s in it, that’s who!!!

In keeping with the square mode, the oatmeal was transferred to big square jars in which  almonds are purchased.  I found plastic lids for coasters under the messy bottles of oils and sticky stuff.  It’s amazing that there is actually room in between items and that I even had space to add a few new baking supplies from the overstuffed upper cabinet!   A half hour well spent .   I’m working on breaking  the habit of just stuffing things in so that it will stay organized!

Edited to add:  Kohls provided this handy link  http://www.kohls.com/kohlsStore/kitchen/foodstorage.jsp     AND . . . . Kohls is offering an exclusive 10% off code for kohls.com to readers of A Pinch of Joy for items used in home styling and organization. You can use the code UBLOGTEN now through October 24, 2012  and stack your savings with one other department specific code as well.   Thank you, Kohls!

Disclosure:  This post is entirely my opinion and was not written for compensation.

Don’t miss a thing –  subscribe by email or RSS feed, follow on facebook or twitter to catch the latest post!  If you found this post helpful, please  give it a Stumble, Tweet, Pin, or Facebook Like. Your support of A Pinch of Joy is greatly appreciated!

 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Related posts:

Flower Bed Before and After

Last fall, we had an ash tree removed between the house and the front door walk.   The retaining wall went behind and around the now gone tree, so I moved it forward next to the sidewalk.  Then we added dirt, more dirt and still more. . . ahem . . . fine soil.  (When we totalled  the cost,  it went from dirt to finest soil!)  Added plants. . . mostly collected from the markdown shelves at nearby nurseries.   Mulched — not my favorite kind, but it helps retain moisture.  That’s an important feature because it turned ninety the minute I put the last plant in the ground and is supposed to stay there till next week!   Still finessing the layout of the drip hose, so when that is done I’ll put down another layer of pine nugget mulch. It’s darker and easier to handle and makes a great background for flowers.

The idea is a full,  lush English cottagey type garden in the summer and boxwood foundation plantings  in the winter . . .  stay tuned!

Have a joyfilled weekend!

Don’t miss a thing!  Follow with email, on facebook, twitter or RSS.  I would love it if you gave anything you find helpful or interesting on these pages a Stumble, Tweet, Pin, or  Like. Your support of A Pinch of Joy is greatly appreciated!

Related posts: