How to make old art new again

How to change mat colors -  quick, easy and no cost  A Pinch of Joy

How to make old art new again.  And make it coordinate with new room colors.  And do it quickly,  easily and at almost no cost.   That was the challenge in our dining room makeover. 

I found this picture at a garage sale a few years ago.  Someone was selling off the almost new contents of their office,  including artwork.  This reminded me of a spot in one of our favorite hiking areas, a place called Highbanks,  in the spring time.  When I got it home, the title of the piece is “Spring”.  It’s pretty good sized – 48 inches by 38 inches –  and very heavy.  For a while it hung in the living room.   However, a perfect spot opened up when we did the dining room.  Except  the mat colors made it look way too heavy for the light, airy and meditative vibe I was going for.   Plus I didn’t think they really conveyed “Spring”.   

 

Wall Art.Old

So I unceremoniously turned the picture upside down on the dining room table and began to disassemble it.  I had pictures of the process but when we changed computers last fall, a whole bunch of photos came up missing.  (Yes, the mat colors above were edited in.)  So you’ll have to imagine the process.  It was very simple actually.

I experimented with the color swatches for several days, trying different combinations to pick up different portions of the picture.  I really liked the one that picked up the orangey color, but again the over all effect was not the serene feeling I wanted.  Finally I decided to go with the wall color and the color of the adjacent hallway.  They didn’t jar or call attention to themselves and blended with both the wall color (since it IS the wall color)  and the colors in the picture. 

 I carefully removed the dust cover so I would be able to reuse it.  Some are stapled on, the better ones are glued and a little tricky to get off in one piece.  A sharp thin knife helps.    Then I slipped out the mats, being very careful not to let them bend and become nicked or creased.  I placed them on a tarp on the garage floor, which was the only work place big enough to hold them both flat.

Then . . . .the secret to new mats that are quick, easy and  no cost.  Drum roll please. 

 The very same paint that was used to paint the walls.  Yes, just latex paint.  I used a small roller just wide enough to cover the entire mat and quickly did a light coat of their respective colors to seal and prime the mat itself.  When that dried in about 30 minutes.  I came back with another coat.  Thirty minutes later a third light coat.  I let them dry over night to be sure they were thoroughly dry and would not stick to one another or to the glass.

I carefully cleaned the inside of the glass (and missed one fingerprint at the bottom that no one else can see but that screams at me!).  Then I reassembled the entire thing, following exactly the same steps as in disassembling except in reverse.   The hardest part was getting the dust cover on straight and in one piece, but even that was fairly easy. 

There were so many options for color choice, but I like this one because it flows with the  strong wall color and does not compete with the wall or the picture.  That lets the print speak for itself.    It does that and quite clearly too.  When my friend saw it, she exclaimed “Oh, that’s the spot in Highbanks where my husband I go hiking.” 

 I don’t know if the artist even knew Highbanks existed when he painted it.  But it was great to know that the print elicited the same thoughts of hiking on a beautiful spring day in at least two people. 

  I like art that speaks to people! 

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How to Install a Chair Rail

How to Install Chair Rail

You can purchase 12, 10 or 8 foot lengths of moulding and trim. Before buying, measure the room and take note of windows and doors.  Determine the longest unbroken run and that will determine the length of the stock moulding.  For example,  if the measurement is over 10 foot, buy 12 foot long stock.  This will allow you to make as few splices as possible and save you time and work.  With a little thought, you can figure out how to make those three dimensions work in your room to make as few cuts as possible.  Just be sure the pattern is exactly the same in all lengths.  Remember when figuring length of stock that straight ends will butt up against door and window frames but that corners will require an extra inch at least in order to make the diagonal cuts necessary for fit.  (And don’t worry if you come out with a bit of extra footage — that’s your insurance policy against mistakes!)

All the woodwork in our home has been painted white, so when we purchase new trim or molding I go for the preprimed stock.  I also give it at least one coat of the finish paint before doing anything else with it.  It’s much easier to paint when it is laying flat and no worries about getting paint on a wall.

Once you’ve  determined the height of your chair rail, and are ready to install, grab your tape measure and level to make a level line along the whole length of the room.  Floors are not always level, so measuring up from the floor could give you a wavy line. It might be parallel to the floor but make you seasick to look at it!  

chalk line

A quick way to make a line is to measure up from the floor at two points and have a helper hold one end of a chalk line while you draw the line taut, hold it securely in place and snap the line.  Check the level of the line it’s full length with a carpenter’s level.   Adjust as needed to make sure the finished line is level all the way round the room. A good laser level (the kind that comes with it’s own tripod) can be helpful, especially if you working solo.  In that case, get the beam set across the entire wall and check the measurements from the floor at several places to make sure the rail will be installed where you expect it to be.

In new construction, workers will often cut all the moulding before installation.  Our experience in older homes is whatever the project,  it is better to cut as you go. That way it’s easy to make minor adjustments and to custom cut each piece so it fits perfectly – or at least as close to perfect as it can get.  One wall in our dining room has a very noticeable bow.  You can actually measure where it dips in a full ¾ of an inch!  . 

Chair Rail6

The cutting and installation was Bytes’ contribution.  I’m on the other end of the tape measure, holding long boards when they are being sawed and acting as general picker upper and gofer.   (Wheels’ long work hours keeps him in an advisory position :-) )    The dining room was our first trim project in this house.  We weren’t sure how it would work out or if we would want to do another one again.  Minimal investment was to find the hand miter saw in the garage so Bytes did all the work in  by hand.  It was a little more time consuming but not hard to do.

Begin installing at an inside corner .  Measure from the corner to the next natural stopping place.  That may be a door, a window or the next corner.  Doors or windows generally call for a straight cut on your moulding.   Inside corner cuts are done at a 45 degree angle with the part of the moulding that goes against the wall the longest part of the angle.  We call those “innies” because the cut goes in towards the wall with the longest part next to the wall.   Both pieces of moulding are cut the same at the corner.  They will butt up against each other and make a square corner.

 An outside corner is cut with the longest part of the moulding on the outside and the short cut right on the corner of the wall.  Those are “outies”  If it is necessary to splice two pieces of moulding, make 30 degree cuts.  One piece will be an innie and on the second piece the cut will be an outie.  It doesn’t matter which is which as long as you are consistent in the way you cut the splices thoughout the room.

Chair Rail4

To install, put the bottom (or top if that’s the way you measured — no right or wrong way)  of the molding on the level line that you drew.  Check to make sure the moulding is level before beginning nailing.  Use a 2 /12 inch finishing nail at the high parts of the molding to prevent splitting. If the chair molding is narrow, one nail every 12-18 inches, depending on the placement of the wall studs, will suffice.  Wider molding may need a nail at the top and another at the bottom directly below the first.   We did it the classic way with a hand held hammer!

Use glue ONLY when joining one piece of trim to another, if then.  We didn’t.  It is not be necessary to glue the trim to the wall because the nails will hold it securely.    In fact, if you (or the next owner) want to remove the trim at some point, glue will turn that job into a very expensive and time consuming mess. Removing something glued to wall board generally destroys the top layer at a minimum, requiring patching, and can ruin the board to the point that it must be replaced entirely.  

Use a nail set to recess the nail heads just below the surface of the wood. 

This is where I begin to prepare the trim for painting.  Fill the nail holes with paintable caulk or joint compound. Apply a bead of paintable caulk to the edge of the molding where it meets the wall, and fill in any other holes or gaps if needed.   Paintable caulk is what we used in the dining room.   Test its paintability in a corner before doing the whole room if you haven’t used that particular brand or kind before, because results can vary.  You can also use joint compound to fill in openings and cracks. Use either one sparingly.   A wet rag or sponge to wipe up excess with both is very helpful. 

Sand smooth when dry.  I picked up a set of small scale power tools at a garage sale a couple of years ago.  The contractor selling them considered them a joke gift he couldn’t wait to get out of his sight.  Well, I  looove them!!!    They are all lightweight, which is a big consideration for me.   The detail sander with its 3 inch triangular head is just the perfect size to make sure the places that were filled are smooth and as invisible as possible.

To finish the project, apply your choice of paint to the chair rail to give it a clean, finished look.

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How to determine where to place a chair rail

A Pinch of Joy: How to determine where to place a chair rail

A chair rail adds interest and polish to any room, bringing instant character and definition.   The term may have originated from the Shakers who used rails with pegs to hang chairs so floors could be easily swept.   Many people think they are  intended to protect the wall from backs of chairs that were pushed up against it and they do sometimes serve that function.  However as far back as the Romans, wood pieces have been most frequently used to divide walls  for design and architectural interest.

But how do you know where to place the chair rail on the wall?  Is one place better than another?  I am so glad you asked!!!!  Because there are answers.

Ancient Greeks searched for mathematical formulas to determine the perfect number, perfect chord, and points of  perfect balance in their work.  Renaissance architects and artists build on the Greek search for perfection.  They decided that the relationship of five to eight created this perfect   balance.  This translates very easily when working with an eight foot high wall in the average house.

To determine chair rail placement according to the classic principles, it works this way mathematically:

8×12 (number of inches in a foot) = 96 inches

96 inches ­divided by 5 (the pleasing ratio)  = 19.2 inches

No dining chair is that short so a chair rail installed at that height is pointless

But — two units are 38.5 inches.

Measure that distance up from the floor.

Chair Rail Apinch of JoyThat’s where the chair rail belongs.  You can make 38.5 inches the top or bottom or middle of your chair rail.  You can see that measurement falls just above the high point of the chair rail in our dining room.    As long as you keep the rail  close to that ideal distance, it will be most pleasing to the eye.  In turn, you also create a more pleasant room.

This is called the golden ratio or the divine proportion.  It was used in the construction of the Pyramids, the Parthenon, and Notre Dame Cathedral.   Artists use this principle in their work.  A notable example is DaVinci’s painting of the Last Supper where the table top height horizontally and the amount of space taken up by Christ in the center of the painting vertically both fit into the golden mean.   (That art history class finally paid off!  Hurray!!!!)

If for some reason a chair rail at that height will not work in your space, here’s an alternative that is also used by photographers and artists on the fly because it is easier and faster than figuring the golden ratio.  Many builders also use it as a default measurement for installing chair rails.  It is the rule of thirds.  A space divided into thirds is also pleasing.

An eight foot wall divided into thirds would be:  96 inches high divided by three equals 32 inches.  The top of the chair rail would also be pleasing at 32 inches if you need to go shorter than the golden ratio measurement.  Alternatively, if the style of your house will handle it, a chair rail installed at 64 inches from the floor would also be within the rule of thirds.  A chair rail this high often has a plate rail installed at its top.  Not coincidentally that is the perfect location for artwork on an eight foot wall.

We chose the Golden Ratio in deciding where to place the chair molding in our dining room make over.  You can read about the  faux tray ceiling here and  wallpaper removal here.  Coming next  is how we installed the chair rail and, in part 2, how we installed the picture frame moulding below the chair rail.

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How to Make a Christmas Garland in Six Easy Steps

Garlands are so versatile for Christmas decorating!  They can lay across a flat surface, like a mantel, hang from a railing, swoop around door frames, window or mirrors — and more.   The best part is:   Garlands don’t have to be disassembled for storage.  Next year, open the storage container and there is a glorious ready made decoration just waiting to bring you cheer!

Step 1 — Choose the foundation

Choose size and type of garland you want. This one is eight foot long, quite full and is frosted. If your garland is not prelit, and you want lights, work the string of lights into the branches. Make sure the plug in will end up on the correct end for where you plan to use the garland! Put most of the lights in toward the center of the garland and just a few on the tips.

Step 2 — Create a Framework

Select three colors and three design elements.

  • The largest sized design element will be the dominant element so what ever color you choose for it will also be the dominant color. When you are finished adding items of that size and color, they should be visible in 60 per cent of the garland. In our example, the dominant element is poinsettias and the dominant color is white. I counted the white from the frosted greenery as part of the 60% because it shows up more in real life than in the photos.
  • The second choice will be the – surprise — secondary color and element. Round Christmas balls are an easy element choice. They “go with” any theme and come in an array of colors and sizes. The individual pieces of this element are smaller than the dominant pieces – the mama bear of our triad. Visually this choice will make up about 25 – 30 percent of the finished project.
  •  And the third color will be the accent – the one that makes the others pop! It will be about 15-20 percent of the color visible in the finished garland – not counting the background green. The element pieces will be the smallest in size of the three types of elements.

Step 3 – Preparation

 Gather all your materials in one spot. (I like to work standing up at a counter.) Snip all stems, remove hangers from glass bulbs, get rid of price tags. You can do these thingsas you go along, but it is faster to do them assembly line style.

Step 4 – Measure

Divide garland into fifths. (You may want to do this on the floor so you have plenty of room.)  For an eight foot garland, one fifth is 19 inches. Place one of your dominant elements at each of these points.

Step 5 – Create

Here is where your creativity can take over!   Working with just one segment, begin to lay out, the different elements. Place them all over the width of the garland – not just in a straight line down the middle. Work first with the dominant color.   Repeat the dominant element in the segment as you like, in uneven numbers counting the “marker” placed in step 4 on your left. Because this color forms 60% of the finished product, you can add a smaller second element in your dominant color to create interest.

The key is to keep them all the same color and tone.  The example uses white snowflake as a lacy contrast to the solid looking poinsettia. Or use different sizes of the element – add small poinsettias in between the larger ones, for example. Place the dominant elements so they relate to one another visually– your eye moves easily from one to the other. From there, you decide when enough is enough!

Drop in the secondary element and color, so that it is about half of the visual“amount” in the segment as the dominant color. Again you can vary things as sizes, finishes (matte or shiny), clusters instead of singles. In general, use only one variation in order to avoid a cluttered look – especially if you used variations in the dominant color. The accent color can also vary, but less so than the other two colors. If you repeat one accent at regular intervals, adding a random variation is more pleasing to the eye. If you want your accent to fall only at random, it’s better to stick to just one element with no variation.

Step 6 – Assemble

When you have achieved a look that you like in one segment, use a hot glue gun to fasten each element to the garland. Be sure to use a low temp glue gun. High temp means just that – up to 400 degrees!  I learned “first hand”  (pun intended) how it can temporarily remove a fingerprint!   Low temp is uncomfortable on the skin, but can be peeled off without burning and,  in sufficient quantity, provides all the holding power necessary.  Keep fluffing the garland as you go along, so it doesn’t become flattened and one dimensional as you add the design elements.

Loosely repeat the pattern you developed in each of the four remaining segments. You don’t have to measure – just eyeball. This gives a feeling of movement and freedom in the finished garland. Then add one or two totally different elements in pleasing color, shape and proportion to the garland — just to break all the rules! You can alter the basic look from time to time by tucking in ribbon, strings of beads, feathers, mesh, or other things. Just keep in mind the 60 % proportion for the dominant color. For example, use wide red ribbon to loop around, through and below the garland, so red becomes the dominant color and white becomes the secondary color.

Finished – at night

Banister garland relfected in mirror

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Autumn Porch

We replaced our faithful olllllld computer yesterday.  It was a lot more fun finding and buying the new one, than it is getting all the information transferred over to it.  I was shocked at how much had accumulated and deleted a bunch, but still the chore has kept Bytes busy all day — and me too!  But it was a beautiful day to snap some pictures of the front of the house to share with you.  It’s fall and we’re getting in the spirit — cue spooky music ~~~~~~

Happy Halloween onion head gardener

The onion headed gardener tends

Spooky bird house for Halloween

. . . the gardens at the Spooky Birdhouse!

And that’s about as spooky as it gets at Chez Charlene this time of year!

Scarecrows and spiders . .

Pumpkins and ghostly boos. . . .

Autumn Welcome wreath

A wreath to welcome you. . . .

Porch in autumn

. . and the fairies, too!

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Create Private Space in Your Backyard

July flew by at Chez Charlene — almost literally, at times!  We added dorecho to our vocabulary as strong straight line winds took down trees and power lines for miles, while in other parts of the country people were coping with wildfires.       Here are Nine Checklists to Help Evacuate Your Home as many had to do.  Experiments  led to these recipes for Breakfast to Go and Mushroom Swiss Burgers , Friday nights gave us a family  favorite known as Chili Cups and our love of carrots led to this decadent, moist Spiced Pineapple Carrot Cake with its perfect complement of Cream Cheese Frosting.

Private garden nook

A while back, Wheels built a garden shed in the very northeast corner of the backyard.  It looked forlorn and lonely.  In short order, lilies that were taking over elsewhere were planted around the base to help tie it into the green landscape.  That did not  block the view from the house, clear across the back neighbor to whom the dog controlling fence belongs, their cul de sac, another  house in direct line and the street behind it.    Then one of our daily walks that spring showed we weren’t the only ones making changes.  A neighbor down the block had installed a new hot tub on the deck and removed a part of the privacy wall and its attached bench.  I asked if we could have it, the neighbor said sure and Wheels looked doubtful!   He and Bytes brought it home, though, and set it beside the shed, at right angles to the back.

Of course, the next step was to pave the area.  From the shed,  the ground sloped up gently to make an elongated mound along the back property line.  I leveled the area I intended to pave and installed a small retaining wall along the edge of the new patio area.  A layer of sand over the leveled earth and I began laying twelve inch square pavers.    In such a small area, it was fairly quick work.  I used a level on each paver to make sure it would set evenly, adding and removing sand as needed  The new patio extended from the bed of lilies to the new retaining wall, about five feet wide.  It’s about 10 feet long, the entire length of the shed.  That summer, we had half round planters fastened to the privacy wall and the shed wall.  A couple of suns from the sun face collection tied the area to the big deck where the rest of the collection hangs.

I planted autumn lace clematis that fall.  It is a fast growing vine, up to 25-30 feet a year and has small, sweet smelling blooms in early fall.   Every spring it needs to be trimmed back or it  takes over everything!  It insures a rich, lush green backdrop for the little patio.   From the kitchen window,   it gives us privacy the open fence does not.   Although, it has had a succession of furniture and accessories, the little patio was never really used.  Until this spring.

A tag sale advertised this beautiful bistro set and I claimed it (for way less than $100 — shhh!)!  The picture above was taken after a rain shower earlier this spring.  I threw a plastic cloth over the table and used it for a potting bench, a paint project elevator, and more.  Then we walked out one morning, breakfast in hand and decided it was a shady spot for breakfast.  It was!  And so peaceful.  Behind us was the splash of the neighbor’s fountain flowing into their koi pond and around was greenery and a seldom seen  view of our house with all the  plantings.  True, the chairs don’t invite a long lingering over coffee, but it is a cozy way to start days off!

Snail

Wheels and I spent our first year of marriage in Germany, living in a tiny apartment  near the Army base where he was stationed.   Coming from the Great Plains, snails were a novelty to us.  He plucked one off the gatepost one rainy day and brought it in.  We named him Egbert.  Egbert lived for a couple of months in the houseplant on the sill of our only window, moving  up or down the stem.  Until we spent a weekend in Paris.  The landlady removed Egbert (probably before we cleared the gate!) and delivered a stern scolding upon our return!   Alas — poor Egbert!  When I saw this figure in a local garden department, it called a name.  No, not mine.  Egberta,  Egbert’s blinged up sister!   And now you know the story of die schnecke who lives in the middle of our little bistro table!

Is there a corner of your garden where you can create a cozy spot?  Snails are optional.

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New cushions in five easy steps

5 easy steps to make cushions for outdoor chairs

 

Boring beige. Tired and sad looking.  The cushions came with the chairs when they were brand new six years ago and had served well – but time for buh-bye! We eat almost every meal outdoors on the deck when the weather is nice.  We needed something a livelier than beige and a bit of pattern to contrast with the dark furniture.  A trip to the fabric store turned up the perfect pattern with soothing colors in an outdoor fabric.  Here’s how to make new cushions for your outdoor chairs in five easy steps!

1. Measure your chairs.  Choose a pillow form that most closely matches the size of your chair. Mine was 20 inches by 20 inches and each chair required 2 forms – one for the seat and one for the back.   I determined how much fabric to buy by measuring the circumference to get 40 inches plus the inch of ease for 41 inches.  Then adding ¾ inch for a hem on each end plus two and 1/2 inch overlap (you’ll see what this means further down) for a total of 45 inches.  The width I needed was the pillow size plus an inch of ease AND two seam allowances – about 22 and a half inches.  Fabric comes in different widths, but the outdoor fabric I chose was 60 inches wide. Each cut measured 45 inches by 22 ½ inches.   No matter how I placed my cuts I needed 45 inches wide and 45 inches deep for two cushions.  Every two cushions meant I needed one and a fourth yards and would have a 15inch x 45 inch piece left.

2. Cut your fabric according to the measurements and plan you made in determining how much fabric to buy.

3. Hem the narrow ends of each piece, using  ¾ hem allowance.

4. Lay the fabric on a table right side up.  Fold one end toward the center approximately  one third of the finished size of the pillow – in this case about 8 inches.  Fold the other end toward the center, overlapping the first end by about 2 and one half inches. Right sides are folded in and what you see is the wrong side of the fabric.  Measure from fold to fold.  The measurement should be the same as the pillow form plus the amount you allowed for ease. Pin the open edges together on one side and then the other.

5.  Stitch the open edges together using the seam allowance you determined in step one.  I double stitched mine, but you don’t have to do that.  Trim the corners by nipping off a triangle from finished seam to outside.  This reduces fabric bulk in the corner.  Turn right side out, pushing corners out with point of scissors as needed.  Insert pillow form into the larger part and then fold the smaller part over so it lays smoothly.  Smile happily!!

The smaller back roll cushions were made from the 15 inch leftovers.  I just folded a 21 inch piece of fabric in half, right side in and stitched them together leaving a narrow end open.  Added handfuls of stuffing material (also available at the fabric store in the same area you find pillow forms).  When I had enough stuffing to suit, I folded in the raw edges of the opening and machine stitched them closed. The finished size is 7 inches by 20 inches.  Easy peasey!!

A custom, one of a kind look for less!

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Quick Change Art

Dark Picture Frame taped for painting

Frame too dark for the space – a windowless bathroom.

 

Paint on a plate with brush and paint bottle

The solution to the problem!

 

Corner of picture frame painted silver

Two coats of silver paint later.

 

Picture of autumn trees on the wall

A much needed pop of color framed in silver brings light to a dark space and coordinates with the silver accessories elsewhere in the room!

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March recap:

Organize Your Financial Paper Series:  Use the documents gathered for filing your income tax return in Part 1 to prepare for emergency in Part 2, to set financial goals and plan ahead in Part 3.   More installments coming.

RecipesFour Bean Salad, No Bake Easy CheesecakeChicken Curry and Fruit Salad, and Wicked Simple Sweet Slaw.

 

 

 

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Painting switch plates and duplex covers

Brass Switchplate

Sometimes, it’s the little things that make the biggest difference.  When we first moved here, we immediately took down a wall that separated the living room from the kitchen and dinette.  Now you can see from the east end of the house to the west end – across three rooms.  We love the open feeling!  But if something is wrong in one part of the space – that’s visible from one end of the house to the other, too!

One of our kitchen upgrades pointed out the fact that we needed to replace all six of the original dingy switch plates.   I looked through the hardware store collections and to buy all six at once  – well, I tend to drag my feet when prices go over the limit I have set in my head.  So we lived with the old ones  while I continued to drag my feet.  Then Bingo!

A garage sale that looked so unpromising that we almost didn’t stop had a shoebox of brass switchplates, duplex covers in all sorts of combinations.  I sorted through, picked out what I needed and went to the seller.  25 cents each.  Then he reached into a plastic bag and counted out the screws I would need.  He was afraid they would get lost if he left them in the shoebox. I thought I would just reuse the screws from the ancient ones we already had!   I came home happy that I had gotten a great deal at $1.50!

Cleaned up those little metal squares and Wheels installed them the same day.  Now I know there is a great debate, at least in blogland, about brass and whether it is totally out of the picture or if it is making its way back.  Forget trendy — the brass winked and reflected things at me all day long.  Still, those little flashes of brass that caught my attention several times each day as I moved about  were such an improvement over the old  electrical plates that I could get along.  I’ll get to them someday. . .

Then we changed the countertop from yellow based to gray based.  Not only did those brass switchplates wink at me everywhere.  They clashed!  And we can’t have that!  Soooo —  out came the can of matte nickel spray paint!

Matte Nickel spraypainted switch plateChanging the color was so simple and took me less than five minutes, not counting drying time.  It went like this:

  • Remove switch plates, duplex covers, etc.
  • Wipe each one with a degreaser so they are absolutely clean
  • Push screws into a piece of corrugated cardboard so they are upright
  • Spray everything with an even, light coat of desired color
  • Dry and repeat with a second coat.  A third coat can be applied if needed.
  • Replace each piece.

Swith and Duplex covers spraypainted matte nickel
No more yellow metallic flashes blinking and reflecting.  Just calm, matte finish blending in with everything else.  Harmony restored!

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Have a joyous day!

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Valentine Mantel and Banner

Valentine's Day Mantel and Banner

Wheels is a rock star when it comes to choosing cards!     We became officially engaged on June 10 – my parent’s wedding anniversary.  We were apart for much of our engagement, but on the tenth of the month without fail I would receive a “monthiversary” card from him.  And after we were married, the sweet, heartfelt cards continued four times a year.  My birthday, our anniversary, Christmas and Valentine’s Day.   I treasure every one — but I never go back to reread them and they are usually in a box in the closet.  And this year, I decided the Valentine cards deserved to be showcased!

I went through the box and chose nine cards about the same size and with a white, gold or red color theme.  Then I punched a hole in the corner and tied each card onto a Christmas string of red beads.  I dove into the stash and came up with ten hearts, and a pile of scrapbook embellishments.   I spelled out V-A-L-E-N-T-I-N-E  on the hearts and embellished them with glitter, buttons and other pretties.  Then I fastened them to the beads between each of the nine cards.  Needed a little fluff –curlies, and silk posies.  Some more cards on the mantel, the pink rose wreath on top of the silver mirror, and a little more fluff.

You can find a little fluff at your house to make February 14 — or any day — a special day and celebrate  relationships with the special people in your life, too!

This post was featured at Kristen’s Creations.  Thank you!

Celebrate with A Pinch of Joy!  Follow on facebook, twitter, RSS, bloglovin’ or sign up to receive new posts by email.  If you see something you like, please use the share buttons below!  Happy Valentine’s Day!

 

 

Linking up to these awesome parties here and   , Sundae Scoop, Linky Party Sunday, Nifty Thrifty Sunday,  Sunday’s Best Party, Creative Blogger’s Party and Hop, . .. Make it Great  Melt In Your Mouth  , Mouth Watering Monday Market Yourself Monday,. Made By You Monday , Motivate Me Monday , Gunny SackJust Something I Whipped Up,  More The Merrier, Show Me How,  . .    , Tasty Tuesday , Delicious DishesTea Party Tuesday, Crazy Sweet Tuesday, Totally Tasty Tuesday , Tuesday Talent Show, Topsy Turvy Tuesdays Wow Me Wednesday. . .  Whatever Goes Wednesday ,    Rock ‘n Share .thesasselife  ,  This Chick Cooks , Cast Party Wednesday, Anything GoesWow Me WednesdayShow and Tell . . .   Full Plate Thursday , Show Off Your Stuff, Hookin’ Up, Simply Link Party , Making It with Allie,  Share Your Creation,  Thrifty Thursday,      Catch a Glimpse  , Chatty Chics, Tasty Thursday   . . Flaunt It FridayFridays Unfolded,    Inspiration Friday , Delicately Constructed     Foodie FridayWeekend Wrap UpWhatcha Got Weekend , Addicted2Decorating, Kitchen Fun . Strut Your Stuff Saturday , Serenity Saturday, Check Me OutSaturday Night Special,  Saturday Seven, Show and Tell Saturday,

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